ASTM D123-00b
(Terminology)Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles
Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles
SCOPE
1.1 This standard is the compilation of all terminology developed by Committee D-13 on Textiles.
1.1.1 This terminology, mostly definitions, is unique to the textile industry. Meanings of the same terms used outside the textile industry can be found in other compilations or in dictionaries of general usage.
1.1.2 The specific D13 subcommittee which has jurisdictional responsibility for every item is the first attribution noted after the definition. The standards in which the terms and definitions appear are listed by number after the jurisdiction for the term. The wording of an entry cannot be changed without the approval of the subcommittee which has jurisdiction and subcommittee D13.92 on Terminology. See 1.2, 1.3, 1.4.
1.2 In addition to being a specialized dictionary, Terminology D 123 is also a tool for managing the committee's terminology. This includes finding, eliminating, and preventing redundancies, that is, where two or more terms relating the same concept are defined in different words. Redundancies can also occur when one definition is used for two or more terms.
1.3 While the review for clarity and form are the responsibility of the terminology subcommittee, the concept of managing terminology is the broad responsibility of every writer of standards, specifically the task group leader and subcommittee chairman.
1.4 Subsequent to a listing of specific subcommittee compilations, this standard is comprised of the following sections that are listed in the order in which they appear.
1.4.1 Alphabetical listing of terms and respective definitions.
1.4.2 Ready reference guide.
1.4.3 Annex A1 Generic names and definitions of manufactured fibers.
1.4.4 Annex A2 Classification of manufactured and natural fibers.
1.4.5 Annex A3 Terms relating to the hand of fabrics.
1.4.6 Annex A4Termninology revision procedures.
1.4.7 Annex A5 Industry accepted synonyms.
1.4.8 Appendix X1 Other sources of textile terminology.
General Information
Relations
Standards Content (Sample)
NOTICE: This standard has either been superseded and replaced by a new version or discontinued.
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Designation: D 123 – 00b
Standard Terminology Relating to
Textiles
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D 123; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (e) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
1. Scope 2. Referenced Documents
1.1 This standard is the compilation of all terminology 2.1 ASTM Standards:
developed by Committee D-13 on Textiles. D 2050 Terminology Relating to Zippers (D13.54)
1.1.1 This terminology, mostly definitions, is unique to the D 3136 Terminology Relating to Care Labels for Textile
textile industry. Meanings of the same terms used outside the and Leather Products Other Than Textile Floor Coverings
textile industry can be found in other compilations or in and Upholstery (D13.62)
dictionaries of general usage. D 3888 Terminology Relating to Open-End Spinning
1.1.2 The specific D13 subcommittee which has jurisdic- (D13.58)
tional responsibility for every item is the first attribution noted D 3990 Terminology Relating to Fabric Defects (D13.59)
after the definition. The standards in which the terms and D 4391 Terminology Relating to Burning Behavior of Tex-
definitions appear are listed by number after the jurisdiction for tiles (D13.92)
the term. The wording of an entry cannot be changed without D 4523 Terminology Relating to Leather-filled and Down-
the approval of the subcommittee which has jurisdiction and filled Products (D13.61)
subcommittee D13.92 on Terminology. See 1.2, 1.3, 1.4. D 4845 Terminology Relating to Wool (D13.13)
1.2 In addition to being a specialized dictionary, Terminol- D 4848 Force, Deformation and Related Properties of Tex-
ogy D 123 is also a tool for managing the committee’s tiles (D13.57)
terminology. This includes finding, eliminating, and preventing D 4850 Terminology Relating to Fabric and Related Terms
redundancies, that is, where two or more terms relating the (D13.59)
same concept are defined in different words. Redundancies can D 4920 Terminology Relating to Moisture in Textiles
also occur when one definition is used for two or more terms. (D13.51)
1.3 While the review for clarity and form are the responsi- D 4965 Terminology of Seams and Seam Finishes in Home
bility of the terminology subcommittee, the concept of man- Sewing (D13.53)
aging terminology is the broad responsibility of every writer of D 5038 Terminology of Textile Conservation (D13.53)
standards, specifically the task group leader and subcommittee D 5219 Terminology Relating to Body Dimensions for
chairman. Apparel Sizing (D13.55)
1.4 Subsequent to a listing of specific subcommittee com- D 5253 Terminology of Writing Care Instructions and Gen-
pilations, this standard is comprised of the following sections eral Refurbishing Procedures for Textile Floor Coverings
that are listed in the order in which they appear. and Textile Upholstered Furniture (D13.62)
1.4.1 Alphabetical listing of terms and respective defini- D 5497 Terminology Relating to Buttons (D13.54)
tions. D 5646 Terminology of Basic Sewing Machine Stitches for
1.4.2 Ready reference guide. Home Use (D13.53)
1.4.3 Annex A1 Generic names and definitions of manufac- D 5684 Terminology Relating to Pile Floor Covering
tured fibers. (D13.21)
1.4.4 Annex A2 Classification of manufactured and natural
3. Terminology
fibers.
3.1 Alphabetical listing of terms with subcommittee juris-
1.4.5 Annex A3 Terms relating to the hand of fabrics.
1.4.6 Annex A4 Terminology revision procedures. diction and attribution for each term.
1.4.7 Annex A5 Industry accepted synonyms.
A-tuft, n—a single-pass process for aligning hook free fibers
1.4.8 Appendix X1 Other sources of textile terminology.
on the Fibroliner FL-101. [D 13.11] D 5332
abrasion, n—the wearing away of any part of a material by
rubbing against another surface. [D13.60] D 3884,
1 D 3885, D 3886, D 4157, D 4158, D 4685, D 4966
This terminology is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D-13 on
Textiles and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.92 on Terminology.
Current edition approved May 10, 2000. Published July 2000. Originally
Annual Book of ASTM Standards, Vol 07.01.
published as D 123 – 21. Last previous edition D 123 – 00a.
Annual Book of ASTM Standards, Vol 07.02.
Copyright © ASTM, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.
D 123
abrasion mark, n—an area damaged by friction. rubber or other elastomer has been improved by the appli-
[D13.59] D 3990 cation of a dip followed by rapid drying and (normally)
absolute humidity, n—the mass of water vapor present in a additional heat treatment. [D13.19] D 5591
unit volume of air. (See humidity and relative humidity) adhesion, n—in tire fabrics, the force required to separate a
[D13.51] D 4920 textile material from rubber or other elastomer by a definite
absorbent compound, n—in textile cleaning, sponge-like prescribed method. [D13.19] D D2229, D 4393, D 4776,
particles which, when saturated with water or dry solvent D 4777
and detergent and brushed into the textile, remove soil from adsorption, n—a process in which the surface of a solid takes
the textile. See powder cleaner. [D13.62] D 5352 on or absorbs in an extremely thin layer molecules of gases,
absorbent pad, n—for cleaning textile floor coverings, a damp of dissolved substances, or of liquids with which it is in
textile material (fabric, felt, sponge, or mop) used to agitate contact. (See also absorption, moisture equilibrium of
and wipe the pile and, in the process, absorb soil. testing. Compare desorption and resorption.)
[D13.62] D 5352 [D13.51] D 4920
absorption, n—a process in which one material (the absor- afterflame, n—persistent flaming of a material after the
bent) takes in or absorbs another (the absorbate); as the ignition source has been removed. [D13.92] D 123
absorption of moisture by fibers. (See also adsorption, and after-flame time, n—the length of time for which a material
moisture equilibrium for testing. Compare desorption and continues to flame after the ignition source has been re-
resorption.) [D13.51] D 4772, D 4920 moved. [D13.92] D 4372, D 4391
accelerated aging, n—in textile processing and testing, the use afterglow, n—glow in a material after the removal of an
of controlled environmental conditions to promote rapid external ignition source or after the cessation (natural or
physical or chemical change in a textile material. induced) of flaming of the material. (See also flame, glow,
[D13.20] D 5427 and smoldering.) [D13.92] D 4391
acceptable quality level (AQL or p ), n—in acceptance afterglow time, n—the time afterglow continues after the
sampling, the maximum fraction of nonconforming items at cessation of flaming or after removal of the ignition source.
which the process average can be considered satisfactory; [D13.92] D 123
the process average at which the risk of rejection is called the air permeability, n—the rate of air flow through a material
producer’s risk. [D13.93] D 3777, D 4028, D 4271, under a differential pressure between the two fabric surfaces.
D 4392 (See permeability, porosity) [D13.59] D 737
acceptance number (c), n—in acceptance sampling, the air-supported roof, n—a fabric roof-system that is properly
maximum number of nonconforming items in a sample that secured and primarily supported and held in place by air
allows the conclusion that the lot conforms to the specifica- pressure. [D13.59] D 4851
tion. [D13.93] D 3777, D 4271, D 4392 air wicking, n—in tires, the passage of air longitudinally along
acceptance sampling, n—sampling done to provide speci- or through yarns in a fabric that has been encased and cured
mens for acceptance testing. [D13.93] D 3777, D 4271, in rubber or other elastomer, that is, air permeability in the
D 4392 plane of the fabric. [D13.19] D 2692
acceptance testing, n—testing performed to decide if a mate- alkali solubility, n—in wool, the percent of clean wool that is
rial meets acceptance criteria. [D13.93] D 3777, D 4271, soluble in a specified alkaline solution under controlled
D 4392 conditions of temperature and time. [D13.13] D 1283
accuracy, n—of a test method, the degree of agreement alpaca, n—the fleece and fiber produced by the alpaca, an
between the true value of the property being tested (or an animal of the genus Llama (Lama glama pacus).
accepted standard value) and the average of many observa- [D13.13] D 2252
tions made according to the test method, preferably by many American grain count, n—a direct yarn numbering system for
observers. (See also bias and precision.) expressing linear density, equal to the mass in grains per 120
[D13.93] D 2905, D 2906, D 4697, D 4855 yards of sliver or roving.
acid content, n—of felt, the number of milliequivalents of acid [D13.58] D 2260
present per unit weight of felt, measured under prescribed amount, n—in cotton fiber testing with the Length Analyzer,a
conditions. [D13.13] D 461 measure of the thickness or pneumatic density of the test
acromion, n—in anatomy, that part of the shoulder blade beard, proportional to the number of fibers present at various
located at the end of the spine which articulates with the distances from the base of the specimen clamp jaws.
collar bone. (See also shoulder joint.) [D13.55] D 5251 [D13.11] D 4604
across shoulder, n—in body measurements, the distance from amount, n—in cotton length testing with the Fibrograph,a
shoulder joint to shoulder joint across the back. measure of the thickness, or optical density, of the test beard,
[D13.55] D 5219 proportional to the number of fibers present at various
acrylic fiber—See acrylic in Annex A1. distances from the comb(s). [D13.11] D 1447, D3817
adhesion, n—the property denoting the ability of a material to analysis of variance (ANOVA), n—a procedure for dividing
resist delamination or separation into two or more layers. the total variation of a set of data into two or more parts, one
[D13.19] D 1871, D 1877, D 4393, D 4776, D 4777 of which estimates the error due to selecting and testing
adhesive treated-tire cord, n—a tire cord whose adhesion to
D 123
specimens and the other part(s) possible sources of addi- [D13.63] D 4852
tional variation. [D13.93] D 4854 attribute, n—a specific characteristic of a thing. (See at-
anidex fiber—See anidex in Annex A1. tribute data.) [D13.93] D 4271
animal fiber, n—any natural protein-base fiber. attribute data, n—observed values or determinations which
[D13.13] D 1574, D4510 indicate the presence or absence of specific characteristics.
ankle, n—in anatomy, the joint between the foot and the lower [D13.93] D 4271, D 4697, D 4854
leg. [D13.55] D 5219 automatic lock slider, n—in zippers, a slider that provides
ankle girth, n—in body measurements, the circumference of involuntary, positive locking action on the chain when the
the leg over the greatest prominence of the ankle. pull is released. [D13.54] D 2050
[D13.55] D 5219 average, n—for a series of observations, the total divided by
ankle height, n—in body measurements, with the subject the number of observations. [D13.93] D 4853
standing barefoot, the distance from the center of the average fiber diameter, n—in wool and other animal fibers,
prominent outside ankle bone to the floor. the average width of a group of fibers when measured on a
[D13.55] D 5219 projected image. [D13.13] D 2130, D 2252, D 3991,
aqueous extract, n—in wool testing, the solution obtained by D 3992
digesting a material with water or with a sodium chloride azlon fiber—See azlon in Annex A1.
solution to dissolve soluble materials. [D13.13] D 2165 B-tuft, n—a two-pass process for aligning hooked fibers on the
aramid fiber—See aramid in Annex A1. Fibroliner FL-101. [D13.11] D 5332
architectural-use, n—in the building trade, a descriptive term back breakpoint, n—in anatomy, the location on the back of
for fabrics used in fabric roof-systems or similar industrial the body where the arm separates from the body.
applications. (See also fabric roof-system.) [D13.55] D 5219
[D13.59] D 4851 back coating, n—in textile floor covering, an adhesive com-
arm length, n—in body measurements, with the arm bent at 90 pound applied for such purpose as locking pile yarn tufts into
degrees and the clenched fist placed on the hip, the distance a carpet backing, bonding a secondary backing to a primary
from the shoulder joint along the outside of the arm over the backing, or increasing fabric body or stiffness and increasing
elbow to the greatest prominence on the outside of the wrist. dimensional stability [D13.21] D 418, D 4852, D 5684
[D13.55] D 5219 back side, n—in textile materials, the side of the material that
armhole, n—in garment construction, the area of a garment faces inward in the completed object (Ant. face side).
through which the arm passes or into which a sleeve is fitted. [D13.53] D 4965
(Compare armscye.) [D13.55] D 5219 back waist length, n—in body measurements, the vertical
armpit, n—in anatomy, the hollow under the junction of the distance along the spine from the cervicale to the waist.
arm and the shoulder. [D13.55] D 5219 [D13.55] D 5219
armscye, n—in garment construction, the opening in a gar- back width, n—in body measurements, the distance from
ment for the attachment of a fitted sleeve. (Compare arm- back-breakpoint to back-breakpoint. [D13.55] D 5219
hole.) [D13.55] D 5219 backing, n—for pile yarn floor covering, all materials in a pile
armscye circumference, n—in body measurements, with the yarn floor covering other than pile yarn.
arm hanging down, the distance from the shoulder joint [D13.21] D 5251, D 5252, D 5684
through the front-break point, the armpit, the back-break backing fabric, n—in textiles,a fabric into which a pile yarn is
point and to the starting point. [D13.55] D 5219 inserted, or a reinforcing layer which is adhered to the
assignable cause, n—a factor which contributes to variation reverse side of a fabric. [D13.21] D 2646, D 5684,
and is feasible to detect and identify. [D13.93] D 4467 D 5848
atmosphere for testing, n—air at ambient conditions of backing fabric, n—in textile conservation, a support textile
relative humidity and temperature in which tests or experi- fabric located behind the textile artifact.
ments are conducted. (See also standard atmosphere for [D13.53] D 5429
testing.) [D13.51] D 4920 bagging, n—a very heavy, loosely woven fabric used for bale
atmosphere for testing textiles, n—for glass, air maintained covering, etc., woven from heavy, tightly twisted roving,
at a relative humidity of at least 48 % and no greater than consisting largely of reworked an
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