ASTM D3990-99(2004)
(Terminology)Standard Terminology Relating to Fabric Defects
Standard Terminology Relating to Fabric Defects
SCOPE
1.1 This terminology covers defects in both woven and knit fabrics. Descriptions of the defects, illustrations, and related material are given under the most frequently used terms; synonym(s) are listed in parentheses and cross referenced.
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Designation:D3990–99 (Reapproved 2004)
Standard Terminology Relating to
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Fabric Defects
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D 3990; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (e) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
This standard has been approved for use by agencies of the Department of Defense.
1. Scope bias—See skew.
birdseye, n—in knitted fabrics, an unintentional tuck stitch.
1.1 This terminology covers defects in both woven and knit
blanket mark—See sanforizing mark.
fabrics. Descriptions of the defects, illustrations, and related
blotch, n—an offcolored area of any shape caused by grease or
material are given under the most frequently used terms;
oil. (Syn. oil spot)
synonym(s) are listed in parentheses and cross referenced.
bow, n—a fabric condition resulting when filling yarns or
2. Terminology
knitting courses are displaced from a line perpendicular to
the selvages and form one or more arcs across the width of
2.1 Definitions:
fabric. (See also double bow)
abrasion mark, n—an area damaged by friction. (Syn. chafe
bow, double—See double bow.
mark)
box mark—See shuttle mark.
apron mark—See decating mark.
break-out—See smash.
baggy cloth—See wavy cloth.
broken end, n—in woven fabrics, a void in the warp direction
baggy selvage—See slack selvage.
due to yarn breakage.
balling up—See fuzz ball.
broken filament, n—in multifilament yarn, breaks in one or
barré, n—an unintentional, repetitive visual pattern of con-
more filaments. (Syn. strip back, skin back)
tinuous bars and stripes usually parallel to the filling of
broken pick, n—in woven fabrics, a discontinuity in the filling
woven fabric or to the courses of circular knit fabric.
direction caused by a break or cut in the filling yarn.
(Compare warp streak, mixed filling)
DISCUSSION—The term “barré” is sometimes used as a synonym for
“warp streaks” in warp knit and woven fabrics. Barré can be caused by
physical, optical, or dye differences in the yarns, geometric differences
in the fabric structure, or by any combination of these differences.
broken selvage—See cut selvage.
bruise, n—in fabrics, an area that has been subjected to impact
or pressure, that differs from the adjacent normal fabric.
(Syn. pressure mark.)
bunch—See slug.
beaded selvage—See loopy selvage.
chafe mark—See abrasion mark.
clip mark, n—a visual deformation near the edge of a fabric
parallel with the lengthwise direction caused by pressure
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exerted by a clasping device on a clip tenter frame. (See also
ThisterminologyisunderthejurisdictionofASTMCommitteeD13onTextiles
and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.59 on Fabric Test Methods,
pin mark.)
General.
coarse end, n—a larger than normal diameter warp end. (Syn.
Current edition approved Oct. 1, 2004. Published November 2004. Originally
heavy end) (Compare fine end)
approved as an appendix to Terminology D 123 in 1964. Redesignated D 3990 in
1981. Last previous edition approved in 1999 as D 3990 – 99. coarse filling—See coarse pick.
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D3990–99 (2004)
finished goods after folding.
coarse pick, n—in woven fabrics, one or more picks of larger
diameterthanthenormalfillingyarninthefabric.(Syn.thick
curl—See kink.
filling)
curled selvage, n—self-descriptive. (Syn. rolled selvage,
cockles, n—in yarns, irregular thick, uneven, lumps.
turned-over edge)
color bleeding, n—the loss of color from a dyed fabric when
cut pick—See broken pick.
immersed in water, dry-cleaning solvent, or similar liquid
cut selvage, n—cuts or breaks that occur in the selvage only.
medium, with consequent coloring of the liquid medium.
(Syn. broken selvage, damaged selvage)
(Compare color staining.)
damaged selvage—See cut selvage.
color staining, n—the undesired pickup of color by a fabric:
dead cotton, n—a small nep of cotton fibers which is gathered
(1) when immersed in water, dry-cleaning solvent, or similar
on the surface of the fabric and which is different in color
liquid medium, that contains dyestuffs or coloring material
from the surrounding fabric.
not intended for coloring the fabric, or (2) by direct contact
decating mark, n—a crease mark or impression extending
with other dyed material from which color is transferred by
across the cloth near the beginning or end of a piece due to
bleeding or sublimation. (Compare crocking, color bleed-
the thickness of the fabric leader seam. (Syn. apron mark,
ing)
leader mark)
corded selvage—See loopy selvage.
doctor streak, n—in printed cloth, a wavy white
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