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ASTM D2816-18

(Test Method)

Standard Test Method for Cashmere Coarse-Hair Content in Cashmere

Standard Test Method for Cashmere Coarse-Hair Content in Cashmere

SIGNIFICANCE AND USE
5.1 This test method may be used for determining compliance with a specification for maximum cashmere coarse-hair content and is required to be used for determining compliance with Specification D2817.  
5.1.1 In case of a dispute arising from differences in reported test results when using Test Method D2816 for acceptance testing of commercial shipments, the purchaser and the supplier should conduct comparative tests to determine if there is a statistical bias between their laboratories. Competent statistical assistance is recommended for the investigation of bias. As a minimum, the two parties should take a group of test specimens that are as homogeneous as possible and that are from a lot of material of the type in question. The test specimens should then be randomly assigned in equal numbers to each laboratory for testing. The average results from the two laboratories should be compared using Student's t-test for unpaired data and an acceptable probability level chosen by the two parties before the testing is begun. If a bias is found, either its cause must be found and corrected or the purchaser and the supplier must agree to interpret future test results in the light of the known bias.  
5.2 When the product being tested has a cashmere coarse-hair content that departs significantly either way from the specified amount, the sequential test procedure described herein will result in a substantial reduction in the number of observations required for a decision at the stated level of confidence. On the other hand, when the product being tested has a cashmere coarse-hair content that approaches the specified amount, the sequential procedure ensures that the necessary increased number of observations shall be made to secure a correct decision at the stated level of confidence.
SCOPE
1.1 This test method covers a sequential procedure for determining whether or not the cashmere coarse-hair content of a sample exceeds a specified value.  
Note 1: For the maximum allowable cashmere coarse-hair content in cashmere, refer to Specification D2817.
Note 2: For the quantitative analysis of cashmere hair and blends of cashmere hair and other fibers, refer to Test Methods D629.  
1.2 This test method is applicable only to cashmere hair in the form of roving, yarn, or fabric, and to the cashmere hair content of blends with other fibers, where the expected cashmere coarse-hair content is not more than five mass percent (see Footnote C of Table 1). For greater expected mass percentages of cashmere coarse-hair, see Test Methods D629.  
The data from these studies are on file with the Secretary of Subcommittee D13.13, Committee D13 of ASTM.  
1.3 This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety, health, and environmental practices and determine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.  
1.4 This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for the Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.

General Information

Status
Published
Publication Date
30-Jun-2018
ICS
59.060.10 - Natural fibres
Technical Committee
D13 - Textiles
Drafting Committee
D13.13 - Wool and Felt
Current Stage
Ref Project

Relations

Refers
ASTM D2817-18 - Standard Specification for Maximum Cashmere Coarse-Hair Content in Cashmere
Effective Date
01-Jul-2018
Refers
ASTM D4845-10(2018) - Standard Terminology Relating to Wool
Effective Date
01-Jul-2018
Refers
ASTM D123-17 - Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles
Effective Date
01-Mar-2017
Refers
ASTM D629-15 - Standard Test Methods for Quantitative Analysis of Textiles
Effective Date
01-Feb-2015
Refers
ASTM D123-15 - Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles
Effective Date
01-Apr-2015
Refers
ASTM D123-15a - Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles
Effective Date
01-Sep-2015
Refers
ASTM D123-15b - Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles
Effective Date
15-Sep-2015
Referred By
ASTM D2130-22 - Standard Test Method for Diameter of Wool and Other Animal Fibers by Microprojection
Effective Date
01-Jul-2018
Referred By
ASTM D6466-10(2018) - Standard Test Method for Diameter of Wool and Other Animal Fibers By Sirolan-Laserscan Fiber Diameter Analyser
Effective Date
01-Jul-2018

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ASTM D2816-18 - Standard Test Method for Cashmere Coarse-Hair Content in CashmereASTM D2816-18 - Standard Test Method for Cashmere Coarse-Hair Content in Cashmere
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ASTM D2816-18 - Standard Test Method for Cashmere Coarse-Hair Content in Cashmere
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This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for the
Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.
Designation:D2816 −18
Standard Test Method for
1
Cashmere Coarse-Hair Content in Cashmere
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D2816; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (´) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
3
1. Scope Content in Cashmere (Withdrawn 2018)
D4845 Terminology Relating to Wool
1.1 This test method covers a sequential procedure for
determiningwhetherornotthecashmerecoarse-haircontentof
3. Terminology
a sample exceeds a specified value.
3.1 For all terminology relating to D13.13, Wool and Wool
NOTE 1—For the maximum allowable cashmere coarse-hair content in
Felt, refer to Terminology D4845.
cashmere, refer to Specification D2817.
3.1.1 The following terms are relevant to this test method:
NOTE 2—For the quantitative analysis of cashmere hair and blends of
cashmere hair and other fibers, refer to Test Methods D629. cashmere, cashmere coarse hair, cashmere coarse hair content,
cashmere down, cashmere hair.
1.2 This test method is applicable only to cashmere hair in
the form of roving, yarn, or fabric, and to the cashmere hair
3.2 For all other terminology related to textiles, see Termi-
content of blends with other fibers, where the expected nology D123.
cashmere coarse-hair content is not more than five mass
4. Summary of Test Method
percent (see Footnote C of Table 1). For greater expected mass
percentages of cashmere coarse-hair, see Test Methods D629.
4.1 One thousand (or more) individual fibers of cashmere
hair are examined microscopically and classified either as
1.3 This standard does not purport to address all of the
safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the cashmere down or cashmere coarse-hair on the basis of fiber
width.
responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appro-
priate safety, health, and environmental practices and deter-
4.2 The procedure (7.1 and 7.2) for classifying a fiber as
mine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.
cashmere coarse-hair or cashmere requires microscopic exami-
1.4 This international standard was developed in accor-
nation of fiber segments of fixed length. The number of fiber
dance with internationally recognized principles on standard-
segments of each width category is proportional to the total
ization established in the Decision on Principles for the
length of the fibers in each category. Hence, the percentage by
Development of International Standards, Guides and Recom-
length of cashmere coarse-hair in cashmere hair is equal to the
mendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical
percentage by number of cashmere coarse-hair segments as
Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.
determined by this procedure.
4.3 The observed number of cashmere coarse-hair fibers is
2. Referenced Documents
compared with the numbers in Table 1 and a decision is made
2
2.1 ASTM Standards:
(1) to accept the lot as conforming, (2) to reject the lot as
D123 Terminology Relating to Textiles
nonconforming, or (3) to continue testing. The counting,
D629 Test Methods for Quantitative Analysis of Textiles
classification, and comparison process is continued until a
D2130 Test Method for Diameter ofWool and OtherAnimal
decision can be made as to whether the lot does or does not
Fibers by Microprojection
conform to the specification. Table 1 is based on stated levels
D2817 Specification for Maximum Cashmere Coarse-Hair
of confidence.
5. Significance and Use
1
This test method is under the jurisdiction ofASTM Committee D13 on Textiles
5.1 This test method may be used for determining compli-
and is the direct responsiblity of Subcommittee D13.13 on Wool and Felt.
ance with a specification for maximum cashmere coarse-hair
Current edition approved July 1, 2018. Published August 2018. Originally
approved in 1969. Last previous edition approved in 2009 as D2816 – 05(2009)
content and is required to be used for determining compliance
which was withdrawn January 2018 and reinstated in July 2018. DOI: 10.1520/
with Specification D2817.
D2816-18.
2
For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, or
contact ASTM Customer Service at service@astm.org. For Annual Book of ASTM
3
Standards volume information, refer to the standard’s Document Summary page on The last approved version of this historical standard is referenced on
the ASTM website. www.astm.org.
Copyright © ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959. United States
1

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ASTM D2968-22(Test Method)
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ASTM D1576-22(Test Method)
Standard Test Method for Moisture in Wool by Oven-Drying

SIGNIFICANCE AND USE
5.1 Test Method D2462 for the determination of the moisture in wool by distillation with toluene is the preferred method for testing wool for moisture for the acceptance testing of commercial shipments. If, however, the purchaser and the supplier agree, Test Method D1576 for the determination of the moisture in wool by oven drying may be used instead. Comparative tests as directed in 5.1.1, may be advisable.  
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SCOPE
1.1 This test method covers the determination of the amount of moisture present in ordinary commercial and industrial samples of wool in all forms except grease wool, using the oven-drying technique.  
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ASTM D1294-22(Test Method)
Standard Test Method for Tensile Strength and Breaking Tenacity of Wool Fiber Bundles 1-in. (25.4 mm) Gage Length

SIGNIFICANCE AND USE
5.1 Test Method D1294 for the determination of tensile strength may be used for the acceptance testing of commercial shipments of wool, but caution is advised since technicians may fail to get good agreement between results. Comparative tests as directed in 5.1.1 may be advisable.  
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ASTM D2130-22(Test Method)
Standard Test Method for Diameter of Wool and Other Animal Fibers by Microprojection

SIGNIFICANCE AND USE
5.1 This test method specifies a sampling and testing procedure for the measurement of average fiber diameter and variation in diameter of animal fibers as required in Test Method D2968.  
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ASTM D2524-22(Test Method)
Standard Test Method for Breaking Tenacity of Wool Fibers, Flat Bundle Method— 18 in. (3.2 mm) Gage Length

SIGNIFICANCE AND USE
5.1 Test Method D2524 for testing wool fibers for tenacity is considered satisfactory for acceptance testing when the participating laboratories, using a reference wool, have shown acceptable between-laboratory precision. It is recommended that any program of acceptance testing be preceded by an interlaboratory check in the laboratory of the purchaser and the laboratory of the seller on replicate specimens of samples of the material to be evaluated. In cases of dispute, the statistical bias, if any, between the laboratory of the purchaser and the seller should be determined with each comparison being based on testing randomized specimens from one sample of material of the type being evaluated.  
5.2 Values obtained from flat bundle tenacity show a good correlation with values obtained from single fiber tests and require much less time.  
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SCOPE
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1.3 This test method is applicable to wool in any form which can be hand-combed into small bundles of parallelized fibers.  
Note 1: Other test methods for measuring breaking tenacity of fiber bundles include Test Methods D1294, D1445, and D540.  
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ASTM D2462-22(Test Method)
Standard Test Method for Moisture in Wool by Distillation With Toluene

SIGNIFICANCE AND USE
5.1 Test Method D2462 for testing for moisture in wool is considered satisfactory for acceptance testing of commercial shipments since current estimates of between-laboratory precision are acceptable.  
5.1.1 In case of a dispute arising from differences in reported test results when using Test Method D2462 for acceptance testing of commercial shipments, the purchaser and the supplier should conduct comparative testing to determine if there is a statistical bias between their laboratories. Competent statistical assistance is recommended for the investigation of the bias. As a minimum, the two parties should take a group of test specimens that are as homogenous as possible and that are from a lot of the type material in question. The test specimens should be assigned in equal numbers to each laboratory for testing. The average results from the two laboratories should be compared using Student's t-Test for unpaired data and an acceptance probability level chosen by the two parties before the test is begun. If a bias is found, either its cause must be found and corrected or the purchaser and the supplier must agree to interpret future test results in light of the known bias.  
5.2 This test method is the preferred method for all suitable samples of wool where it is important to obtain a result free from the possible biases, introduced by the conditions discussed in 5.3 and 5.4.  
5.3 This test method is free from the interferences caused by different conditions of ambient atmosphere such as might affect the results of oven-drying. A slight amount of residual moisture may be retained in a specimen subjected to oven-drying because of the relative humidity of the ambient air; however, the amount of moisture retained may be estimated from published data.3  
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SCOPE
1.1 This test method covers the determination of the amount of moisture present in grease wool, scoured wool, carded wool, garnetted wool, wool top and intermediate wool products, and rovings, by distillation with toluene.  
1.2 Equations are given for calculating the amount of water present as moisture content (as-received basis) and moisture regain (dry fiber) basis. The term that corresponds to the basis used in the calculation and report must always be stated.  
1.3 This test method is not applicable to material known to contain any steam-distillable, water-soluble matter. If it is suspected that such matter is present, the method should be used with caution.  
1.4 Xylene or other solvents should not be substituted for toluene as no other solvents have been evaluated for use in this standard.  
Note 1: The determination of moisture in wool by oven-drying is covered in Test Method D1576 and for textile materials in general in Test Methods D2654. A method for sampling wool for the determination of moisture in wool is covered in Practice D2525.  
1.5 This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety, health, and environmental practices and determine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.For specific safety hazard statements, see Section 8.  
1.6 This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for the Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.

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ASTM D1574-22(Test Method)
Standard Test Method for Extractable Matter in Wool and Other Animal Fibers

SIGNIFICANCE AND USE
5.1 Test Method D1574 is considered satisfactory for acceptance testing since the method has been used extensively in the trade for acceptance testing.  
5.1.1 In case of a dispute arising from differences in reported test results when using Test Method D1574 for acceptance testing of commercial shipments, the purchaser and the supplier should conduct comparative tests to determine if there is a statistical bias between their laboratories. Competent statistical assistance is recommended for the investigation of bias. As a minimum, the two parties should take a group of test specimens that are as homogeneous as possible and that are from a lot of material of the type in question. The test specimens should then be randomly assigned in equal numbers to each laboratory for testing. The average results from the two laboratories should be compared using Student's t-test for unpaired data and an acceptable probability level chosen by the two parties before the testing is begun. If a bias is found, either its cause must be found and corrected or the purchaser and the supplier must agree to interpret future test results in the light of the known bias.  
5.2 This test method may be used to estimate the quantity of oil, grease, and waxy materials remaining on or in wool fibers after scouring, or the quantity of lubricant added before carding or remaining after carding, or the quantity of such materials added or removed in subsequent processing operations.  
5.3 The residues obtained in this test may be subjected to chemical analysis for identification and assay of the component materials, if desired.  
5.4 The specified solvent in this test method does not remove some materials, such as soaps, that may be present in wool and hence in some cases may reflect more closely the added content of some extractables in wool such as oils. When such materials are present and an estimate of their quantity is desired, some other solvent or combination of solvents should be used as spec...
SCOPE
1.1 This test method covers the determination of the amount of extractable matter in samples of all forms of wool, except grease wool, that is extractable with a non-flammable vapor degreasing and cleaning solvent.  
1.2 This test method does not cover the determination of the amounts of different components in the extracted matter nor their identification.  
1.3 This test method is suitable for use with other animal fibers.  
Note 1: The determination of extractable matter in yarns and in felts is covered in Test Methods D2257 and D461. For the determination of alcohol-extractable matter in oven-dry scoured wool, refer to Test Methods D584 and D1334.  
1.4 The values stated in SI units are to be regarded as standard. The values given in parentheses after SI units are provided for information only and are not considered standard.  
1.5 This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety, health, and environmental practices and determine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use. See 5.4 and Note 3.  
1.6 This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for the Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.

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ASTM D2525-22(Practice)
Standard Practice for Sampling Wool for Moisture

SIGNIFICANCE AND USE
5.1 This recommended practice furnishes directions for the sampling of wool of the various forms indicated in Section 1, in order that correct probability statements may be made about the relationship between the sample mean and the population mean. If these statements are to be correct, certain conditions, which are stated, must hold.  
5.2 This recommended practice requires that a deliberate act of randomization be performed so that all potential sampling units have approximately the same chance of being taken and no sampling unit is deprived of its chance of being taken.  
5.3 In any case where insufficient information about the variability of the sampling units within the lot is available, directions are given for calculating confidence limits for the sample mean so that a correct probability statement can still be made.
SCOPE
1.1 This practice covers the design of a sampling plan to be used to obtain samples for the determination of the moisture content of grease wool, scoured wool, carded wool, garnetted wool, wool top and intermediate products, and rovings.  
1.2 Directions are given for the designation of sampling units, calculation of the number of sampling units required to achieve a preselected precision and confidence level or, alternatively, for calculating the confidence limits for the mean based on the variability of the sample tested.  
Note 1: This practice for devising a sampling plan is intended for use in connection with Test Method D1576 or Test Method D2462. The sampling of raw wool for the determination of clean wool fiber present is covered in Practice D1060.  
1.3 This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for the Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.

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ASTM
ASTM D6961/D6961M-09(2021)(Test Method)
Standard Test Method for Color Measurement of Flax Fiber

SIGNIFICANCE AND USE
5.1 Few standards exist to objectively judge flax quality. Color is an important factor in the quality of flax fiber. Natural variations in raw flax fiber, various processing steps, fiber blending, and a wide range of end uses contribute to the need for a standard method of objectively measuring the color of flax fiber. Spectrophotometic data provide an accurate, precise determination of the color of flax fiber. Colorimetric data are obtained through specimen measurement by combining specimen spectral data with data representing a CIE standard observer and a CIE standard illuminant, as described in Practice E308.  
5.2 If there are differences of practical significance between reported test results for two (or more) laboratories, comparative tests should be performed to determine if there is a statistical bias between them, using competent statistical assistance. As a minimum, use the samples for such a comparative test that are as homogeneous as possible, drawn from the same lot of material as the samples that resulted in disparate results during initial testing and randomly assigned in equal numbers to each laboratory. The results from the laboratories involved should be compared using a statistical test for unpaired data, a probability level chosen prior to the testing series. If a bias is found, either its cause must be found and corrected, or future test results for that fiber sample type must be adjusted in consideration of the known bias.
SCOPE
1.1 This test method covers the instrumental color measurement of flax fiber.  
1.2 The values stated in either SI units or inch-pound units are to be regarded separately as standard. The values stated in each system are not necessarily exact equivalents; therefore, to ensure conformance with the standard, each system shall be used independently of the other, and values from the two systems shall not be combined.  
1.3 This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety, health, and environmental practices and determine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.  
1.4 This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for the Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.

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ASTM
ASTM D8394-21(Test Method)
Standard Test Method for Automated Measurement of Maturity, Fineness, Ribbon Width, and Micronaire of Cotton Fibers

SIGNIFICANCE AND USE
5.1 Cotton fiber that is on average finer and more mature is more desirable than coarse or immature fiber, although distinction between these qualities cannot be made quickly and accurately using current test methods. Immature fibers break more easily during processing and have a tendency to form into neps (small entanglements) during processing in the spinning mill. These consequences adversely affect yarn and fabric quality and appearance. Yarn and fabric produced from immature fiber is typically also less lustrous and does not take up dye consistently so yarn and fabric appearance may be different after dyeing.  
5.2 Maturity has a high positive correlation with fiber length and strength but genetic differences and differences in fiber wall thickness caused by plant diseases, soil, and water conditions during the growing season interfere with this relationship.  
5.2.1 Fine fibers are required for fine count yarn manufacture and fiber fineness affects yarn count, evenness and strength. Both fineness and ribbon width are strong genetic traits evident between species and affected by growing conditions within species.  
5.2.2 Micronaire has traditionally been used as a measure of fiber fineness although the value actually measures fiber specific surface area or surface area per unit weight. As a result, micronaire varies concomitantly with both maturity and fineness (see Fig. 2). Maturity and fineness are related to micronaire via Lord’s equation.4
FIG. 2 Relationship Between Micronaire (X), Fineness (H), and Maturity (M)  
5.3 Cottonscope values have been judged against fineness, maturity and ribbon width values produced by examination of thousands of individual, magnified fiber cross-sections. Relationships with equivalent values by these and other older test methods are highly significant5,6 particularly if the number of cross-sections analyzed is high (>3000) and the cross-sections are carefully prepared and measured. Cottonscope measures approximately 20,...
SCOPE
1.1 This test method covers the determination of linear density (gravimetric fineness hereafter stated as fineness), maturity, micronaire, and ribbon width of cotton fibers from a loose, chemically untreated sample taken before harvest, during ginning, during mill processing or unraveled from raw (undyed) yarn or fabric.  
1.2 This test method requires the use of an integrated instrument, for example, the Cottonscope (see Fig. 1), that measures the maturity, fineness, ribbon width, and micronaire of cotton fiber.2
FIG. 1 Cottonscope Instrument
Note 1: For another test method to determine the maturity of cotton fibers, refer to Test Method D1442.  
1.3 The values stated in SI units are to be regarded as standard. No other units of measurement are included in this standard.  
1.4 This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety, health, and environmental practices and determine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.  
1.5 This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for the Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.

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