ASTM D3990-12e1
(Terminology)Standard Terminology Relating to Fabric Defects
Standard Terminology Relating to Fabric Defects
SCOPE
1.1 This terminology covers defects in both woven and knit fabrics. Descriptions of the defects, illustrations, and related material are given under the most frequently used terms; synonym(s) are listed in parentheses and cross referenced.
General Information
Relations
Standards Content (Sample)
NOTICE: This standard has either been superseded and replaced by a new version or withdrawn.
Contact ASTM International (www.astm.org) for the latest information
´1
Designation: D3990 − 12
StandardTerminology Relating to
1
Fabric Defects
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D3990; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (´) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
This standard has been approved for use by agencies of the Department of Defense.
1
ε NOTE—Terms from Test Method D7811 were added editorially in August 2013.
physical, optical, or dye differences in the yarns, geometric differences
1. Scope
in the fabric structure, or by any combination of these differences.
1.1 This terminology covers defects in both woven and knit
fabrics. Descriptions of the defects, illustrations, and related
material are given under the most frequently used terms;
synonym(s) are listed in parentheses and cross referenced.
2. Referenced Documents
2.1 ASTM Standards:
D1776 Practice for Conditioning and Testing Textiles
D7811 Test Method For Bow and Skew using a Measuring
Tool
3. Terminology
3.1 Definitions:
abrasion mark, n—an area damaged by friction. (Syn. chafe
beaded selvage—See loopy selvage.
mark)
bias—See skew.
birdseye, n—in knitted fabrics, an unintentional tuck stitch.
apron mark—See decating mark.
baggy cloth—See wavy cloth.
blanket mark—See sanforizing mark.
baggy selvage—See slack selvage.
blotch, n—an offcolored area of any shape caused by grease or
balling up—See fuzz ball.
oil. (Syn. oil spot)
barré, n—anunintentional,repetitivevisualpatternofcontinu-
bow, n—a fabric condition resulting when filling yarns or
ous bars and stripes usually parallel to the filling of woven
knitting courses are displaced from a line perpendicular to
fabric or to the courses of circular knit fabric. (Compare
the selvages and form one or more arcs across the width of
warp streak, mixed filling)
fabric. (See also double bow)
DISCUSSION—The term “barré” is sometimes used as a synonym for
“warp streaks” in warp knit and woven fabrics. Barré can be caused by
bow, double—See double bow.
box mark—See shuttle mark.
1
ThisterminologyisunderthejurisdictionofASTMCommitteeD13onTextiles
break-out—See smash.
and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.59 on Fabric Test Methods,
broken end, n—in woven fabrics, a void in the warp direction
General.
due to yarn breakage.
Current edition approved July 1, 2012. Published August 2012. Originally
approved as an appendix to Terminology D123 in 1964. Redesignated D3990 in
broken filament, n—in multifilament yarn, breaks in one or
1981. Last previous edition approved in 2012 as D3990 – 12. DOI: 10.1520/D3990-
12E01. more filaments. (Syn. strip back, skin back)
Copyright © ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959. United States
1
---------------------- Page: 1 ----------------------
´1
D3990 − 12
broken pick, n— in woven fabrics,adiscontinuityinthefilling
direction caused by a break or cut in the filling yarn.
crease, n—a fabric defect evidenced by a break, line, or mark
generally caused by a sharp fold. (Syn. mill wrinkle)
broken selvage—See cut selvage.
crease mark, n—a visible deformation left in a fabric after a
bruise, n—in fabrics, an area that has been subjected to impact
creasehasbeenincompletelyremovedduringfabricprocess-
or pressure, that differs from the adjacent normal fabric.
ing.
(Syn. pressure mark.)
crocking, n—a transfer of color from the surface of a colored
bunch—See slug.
fabric to an adjacent area of the same fabric or to another
chafe mark—See abrasion mark.
surface principally by rubbing action. (Compare color stain-
clip mark, n—a visual deformation near the edge of a fabric
ing)
parallel with the lengthwise direction caused by pressure
exerted by a clasping device on a clip tenter frame. (See also
pin mark.)
coarse end, n—a larger than normal diameter warp end. (Syn.
heavy end) (Compare fine end)
coarse filling—See coarse pick.
coarse pick, n— in woven fabrics, one or more picks of larger
diameterthanthenormalfillingyarninthefabric.(Syn.thick
filling)
cockles, n—in yarns, irregular thick, uneven, lumps.
color bleeding, n—the loss of color from a dyed fabric when
crowsfeet, n—in fabrics, fine wrinkles of varying degrees of
immersed in water, dry-cleaning solvent, or similar liquid
intensity, size, and shape.
medium, with consequent coloring of the liquid medium.
DISCUSSION—Crowsfeet may occur during wet processing and on
(Compare color staining.)
finished goods after folding.
color staining, n—the undesired pickup of color by a fabric:
curl—See kink.
(1) when immersed in water, dry-cleaning solvent, or similar
curled selvage, n—self-descriptive. (Syn. rolled selvage,
liquid medium, that contains dyestuffs or co
...
Questions, Comments and Discussion
Ask us and Technical Secretary will try to provide an answer. You can facilitate discussion about the standard in here.