Standard Terminology Relating to Fabric Defects

SCOPE
1.1 This terminology covers defects in both woven and knit fabrics. Descriptions of the defects, illustrations, and related material are given under the most frequently used terms; synonym(s) are listed in parentheses and cross referenced.

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Status
Historical
Publication Date
30-Jun-2008
Technical Committee
Current Stage
Ref Project

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Effective Date
01-Jul-2008

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ASTM D3990-99(2008) - Standard Terminology Relating to Fabric Defects
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NOTICE: This standard has either been superseded and replaced by a new version or withdrawn.
Contact ASTM International (www.astm.org) for the latest information
Designation:D3990–99 (Reapproved 2008)
Standard Terminology Relating to
1
Fabric Defects
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D3990; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (´) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
This standard has been approved for use by agencies of the Department of Defense.
1. Scope beaded selvage—See loopy selvage.
bias—See skew.
1.1 This terminology covers defects in both woven and knit
birdseye, n—in knitted fabrics, an unintentional tuck stitch.
fabrics. Descriptions of the defects, illustrations, and related
blanket mark—See sanforizing mark.
material are given under the most frequently used terms;
blotch, n—an offcolored area of any shape caused by grease or
synonym(s) are listed in parentheses and cross referenced.
oil. (Syn. oil spot)
2. Terminology
bow, n—a fabric condition resulting when filling yarns or
knitting courses are displaced from a line perpendicular to
2.1 Definitions:
the selvages and form one or more arcs across the width of
abrasion mark, n—an area damaged by friction. (Syn. chafe
fabric. (See also double bow)
mark)
bow, double—See double bow.
apron mark—See decating mark.
box mark—See shuttle mark.
baggy cloth—See wavy cloth.
break-out—See smash.
baggy selvage—See slack selvage.
broken end, n—in woven fabrics, a void in the warp direction
balling up—See fuzz ball.
due to yarn breakage.
barré, n—an unintentional, repetitive visual pattern of con-
broken filament, n—in multifilament yarn, breaks in one or
tinuous bars and stripes usually parallel to the filling of
more filaments. (Syn. strip back, skin back)
woven fabric or to the courses of circular knit fabric.
broken pick, n—in woven fabrics, a discontinuity in the filling
(Compare warp streak, mixed filling)
direction caused by a break or cut in the filling yarn.
DISCUSSION—The term “barré” is sometimes used as a synonym for
“warp streaks” in warp knit and woven fabrics. Barré can be caused by
physical, optical, or dye differences in the yarns, geometric differences
in the fabric structure, or by any combination of these differences.
broken selvage—See cut selvage.
bruise, n—in fabrics, an area that has been subjected to impact
or pressure, that differs from the adjacent normal fabric.
(Syn. pressure mark.)
bunch—See slug.
chafe mark—See abrasion mark.
1 clip mark, n—a visual deformation near the edge of a fabric
ThisterminologyisunderthejurisdictionofASTMCommitteeD13onTextiles
parallel with the lengthwise direction caused by pressure
and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.59 on Fabric Test Methods,
General.
exerted by a clasping device on a clip tenter frame. (See also
Current edition approved July 1, 2008. Published October 2008. Originally
pin mark.)
approved as an appendix to Terminology D123 in 1964. Redesignated D3990 in
coarse end, n—a larger than normal diameter warp end. (Syn.
1981. Last previous edition approved in 2004 as D3990 – 99 (2004). DOI:
10.1520/D3990-99R08. heavy end) (Compare fine end)
Copyright © ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.
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D3990–99 (2008)
coarse filling—See coarse pick. curl—See kink.
coarse pick, n—in woven fabrics, one or more picks of larger
curled selvage, n—self-descriptive. (Syn. rolled selvage,
diameterthanthenormalfillingyarninthefabric.(Syn.thick
turned-over edge)
filling)
cut pick—See broken pick.
cockles, n—in yarns, irregular thick, uneven, lumps.
cut selvage, n—cuts or breaks that occur in the selvage only.
color bleeding, n—the loss of color from a dyed fabric when
(Syn. broken selvage, damaged selvage)
immersed in water, dry-cleaning solvent, or similar liquid
damaged selvage—See cut selvage.
medium, with consequent coloring of the liquid medium.
dead cotton, n—a small nep of cotton fibers which is gathered
(Compare color staining.)
on the surface of the fabric and which is different in color
color staining, n—the undesired pickup of color by a fabric:
(1) when immersed in water, dry-cleaning solvent, or similar from the surrounding fabric.
liquid medium, that contains dyestuffs or coloring material
decating mark, n—a crease mark or impression extending
not intended for coloring the fabric, or (2) by direct contact
across the cloth near the beginning or end of a piece due to
with other dyed material from which color is transferred by
the thickness of the fabric leader seam. (Syn. apron mark,
bleeding or sublimation. (Compare crocking, color bleed-
leader mark)
ing)
doctor streak, n—in printed cloth, a wavy white or colored
corded selvage—See loopy
...

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