ASTM D4231-22

Standard Practice for Evaluation of Launderable Woven Dress Shirts and Sports Shirts

SIGNIFICANCE AND USE
4.1 This practice may be used to evaluate pertinent performance characteristics of men's and boys' launderable woven dress shirts and sport shirts.  
4.2 The characteristics to be evaluated and the acceptance criteria assigned to these areas shall be set by mutual agreement between purchaser and supplier.  
4.3 The uses and significance of specific properties are discussed in the appropriate test methods and performance specifications.
SCOPE
1.1 This practice covers the evaluation of specific characteristics of importance in launderable woven dress shirts and sport shirts.  
1.2 Any launderable woven dress shirt or sport shirt may be evaluated using this practice, but it shall not be construed to be a standard of performance.  
1.3 This practice may be used by mutual agreement between the purchaser and supplier to establish purchasing specifications.  
1.4 This practice is not intended to be used in the evaluation of woven dress shirts or sport shirts when drycleaned or hand-washed.  
1.5 This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for the Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.

General Information

• Status: Published
• Publication Date: 31-Oct-2022
• ICS: 97.060 - Laundry appliances
• Technical Committee: D13 - Textiles
• Drafting Committee: D13.61 - Apparel

Relations

• Refers: ASTM D123-17 - Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles
• Effective Date: 01-Mar-2017
• Refers: ASTM D123-15b - Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles
• Effective Date: 15-Sep-2015
• Refers: ASTM D123-15a - Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles
• Effective Date: 01-Sep-2015
• Refers: ASTM D123-15 - Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles
• Effective Date: 01-Apr-2015
• Refers: ASTM D3136-14 - Standard Terminology Relating to Care Labeling for Apparel, Textile, Home Furnishing, and Leather Products
• Effective Date: 15-May-2014
• Refers: ASTM D7022-13 - Standard Terminology Relating to Apparel
• Effective Date: 01-Oct-2013
• Refers: ASTM D7022-13e1 - Standard Terminology Relating to Apparel
• Effective Date: 01-Oct-2013
• Refers: ASTM D3136-13 - Standard Terminology Relating to Care Labeling for Apparel, Textile, Home Furnishing, and Leather Products
• Effective Date: 01-Jul-2013
• Refers: ASTM D3136-13e1 - Standard Terminology Relating to Care Labeling for Apparel, Textile, Home Furnishing, and Leather Products
• Effective Date: 01-Jul-2013
• Refers: ASTM D123-13ae1 - Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles
• Effective Date: 15-Jun-2013
• Refers: ASTM D123-13a - Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles
• Effective Date: 15-Jun-2013
• Refers: ASTM D123-13 - Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles
• Effective Date: 15-May-2013
• Refers: ASTM D123-12 - Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles
• Effective Date: 01-Feb-2012
• Refers: ASTM D123-12e1 - Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles
• Effective Date: 01-Feb-2012
• Refers: ASTM D123-09 - Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles
• Effective Date: 15-Jan-2009

Overview

ASTM D4231-22, Standard Practice for Evaluation of Launderable Woven Dress Shirts and Sports Shirts, is an internationally recognized guideline developed by ASTM International. This standard provides a systematic practice for evaluating the performance characteristics of men’s and boys’ launderable woven dress shirts and sports shirts. It outlines procedures for testing various properties of shirts that are expected to withstand repeated home launderings, ensuring the consistent quality and durability of textile products in the apparel industry. It serves as a crucial tool for buyers and suppliers to assess product attributes and establish clear purchasing specifications.

Key Topics

The main focus areas of ASTM D4231-22 include:

• Performance Evaluation: The standard describes how to assess the functional characteristics of launderable woven dress shirts and sports shirts, such as seam quality, colorfastness, and dimensional stability after laundering.
• Mutual Agreement: Evaluation criteria and acceptance levels for different shirt properties are determined by agreement between the purchaser and supplier, supporting clear communication and quality expectations.
• Testing Procedures: It references specific test methods and performance specifications for key shirt attributes, including:
  • Seam failure (ASTM D1683)
  • Seam pucker appearance (AATCC TM88B)
  • Colorfastness with various bleaches (AATCC TM172, TM188)
  • Dimensional changes after laundering (AATCC TM150)
  • Appearance retention (AATCC TM143)
• Scope Limitations: The practice is specific to shirts intended for home laundering and is not suitable for evaluating shirts that are dry-cleaned or hand-washed.

Applications

ASTM D4231-22 offers significant practical value across the apparel and textile supply chain, particularly for manufacturers, suppliers, and buyers of woven dress shirts and sports shirts. Its applications include:

• Product Quality Assurance: Helps apparel brands and garment producers validate the durability and long-term appearance of shirts after repeated home laundering, addressing consumer expectations.
• Purchasing Specifications: Supports procurement professionals and suppliers in establishing objective, mutually agreed-upon criteria for product acceptance and rejection, minimizing disputes and returns.
• Testing and Inspection: Provides a standardized approach for laboratory testing, ensuring consistent and reproducible evaluations of critical shirt properties.
• Compliance and Trade: Aligns with international best practices, facilitating compliance with global sourcing requirements and reducing technical barriers to trade.

Related Standards

Manufacturers and stakeholders using ASTM D4231-22 often reference related standards to ensure comprehensive evaluation and quality:

• ASTM D123: Terminology Relating to Textiles
• ASTM D1683: Test Method for Failure in Sewn Seams of Woven Fabrics
• ASTM D1776: Practice for Conditioning and Testing Textiles
• ASTM D3136: Terminology Relating to Care Labeling for Apparel, Textile, Home Furnishing, and Leather Products
• ASTM D4154: Performance Specification for Men’s and Boys’ Knitted and Woven Beachwear and Sports Shirt Fabrics
• AATCC TM88B: Smoothness of Seams in Fabrics After Repeated Home Laundering
• AATCC TM143: Appearance of Apparel and Other Textile End Products After Repeated Home Laundering
• AATCC TM150: Dimensional Changes of Garments after Home Laundering
• AATCC TM172/TM188: Colorfastness to Bleach in Home Laundering

By applying ASTM D4231-22 alongside these referenced standards, the textile industry can systematically evaluate and enhance the launderability and appearance of woven shirts, ultimately meeting both regulatory and consumer requirements. This standard plays a vital role in textile quality management and apparel performance evaluation worldwide.

Standards Content (Sample)

This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for the
Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.
Designation: D4231 − 22
Standard Practice for
Evaluation of Launderable Woven Dress Shirts and Sports
Shirts
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D4231; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (´) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
1. Scope D4154 PerformanceSpecificationforMen’sandBoys’Knit-
ted and Woven Beachwear and Sports Shirt Fabrics
1.1 This practice covers the evaluation of specific charac-
D7022 Terminology Relating toApparel (Withdrawn 2022)
teristics of importance in launderable woven dress shirts and
2.2 AATCC Test Methods:
sport shirts.
TM88B Smoothness of Seams in Fabrics After Repeated
1.2 Any launderable woven dress shirt or sport shirt may be
Home Laundering
evaluated using this practice, but it shall not be construed to be
TM143 Appearance ofApparel and Other Textile End Prod-
a standard of performance.
ucts After Repeated Home Launderings
1.3 Thispracticemaybeusedbymutualagreementbetween TM150 Dimensional Changes of Garments after Home
Laundering
the purchaser and supplier to establish purchasing specifica-
tions. TM172 Colorfastness to Powdered Non-Chlorine Bleach in
Home Laundering
1.4 This practice is not intended to be used in the evaluation
TM188 Colorfastness to Sodium Hypochlorite Bleach in
of woven dress shirts or sport shirts when drycleaned or
Home Laundering
hand-washed.
EP1 Gray Scale for Color Change
1.5 This international standard was developed in accor- 5
2.3 ASTM Adjuncts:
dance with internationally recognized principles on standard-
Shirt Components- 15 Photographs
ization established in the Decision on Principles for the
3. Terminology
Development of International Standards, Guides and Recom-
mendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical
3.1 Definitions—For definitions of textile terms used in this
Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.
practice, refer to the individualASTM Standards,AATCC Test
Methods, Terminology D123 and Terminology related to Ap-
2. Referenced Documents
parel D7022.
2.1 ASTM Standards:
3.2 Definitions of Terms Specific to This Standard:
D123 Terminology Relating to Textiles
3.2.1 dress shirt, n—a shirt designed to be worn with a tie
D1683 Test Method for Failure in Sewn Seams of Woven
and jacket and made with a specific collar size or numerical
Fabrics
designation.
D1776 Practice for Conditioning and Testing Textiles
3.2.1.1 Discussion—For men’s dress shirts, an additional
D3136 Terminology Relating to Care Labeling for Apparel,
size designation may be used to identify the sleeve length.
Textile, Home Furnishing, and Leather Products
3.2.2 sport shirt, n—a shirt designed to be worn either
D3477 Performance Specification for Men’s and Boys’Wo-
3 informally or with a jacket, and which uses an alphabetical,
ven Dress Shirt Fabrics (Withdrawn 2005)
numerical, or alphanumerical size designator.
4. Significance and Use
ThispracticeisunderthejurisdictionofASTMCommitteeD13onTextilesand
4.1 This practice may be used to evaluate pertinent perfor-
is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.61 on Apparel.
mance characteristics of men’s and boys’ launderable woven
Current edition approved Nov. 1, 2022. Published December 2022. Originally
approved in 1989. Last previous edition approved in 2014 as D4231 – 14. DOI:
dress shirts and sport shirts.
10.1520/D4231-22.
For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, or
contact ASTM Customer Service at [e-mail]. For Annual Book of ASTM AATCC Technical Manual, available from American Association of Textile
Standards volume information, refer to the standard’s Document Summary page on Chemists and Colorists (AATCC), P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC
the ASTM website. 27709, http://www.aatcc.org.
The last approved version of this historical standard is referenced on Photographic standards for evaluating shirt components are available from
www.astm.org. ASTM International Headquarters. Order Adjunct NO. : ADJD4231.
Copyright © ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959. United States
D4231 − 22
4.2 The characteristics to be evaluated and the acceptance 6.3 Shirt Performance Characteristics Prior to Laundering.
criteria assigned to these areas shall be set by mutual agree-
6.3.1 Seam Failure—Evaluate seam failure as directed in
ment between purchaser and supplier.
Test Method D1683.
6.3.2 Seam Pucker—Examineshirt(s)forseampuckerusing
4.3 The uses and significance of specific properties are
AATCC TM88B and photographs described in Fig. 1, Fig. 2,
discussed in the appropriate test methods and performance
and Fig. 3 (See ADJD4231) .
specifications.
6.3.3 Shade Difference—Examine shirts(s) for shade differ-
5. Sampling, Selection, and Number of Specimens
ence from part to part as directed in AATCC EP1.
5.1 Primary Sampling Unit—For the test methods used in 6.3.4 Shirt Appearance—Evaluate the shirts for appearance
this practice, consider boxes or other shipping containers to be of fabric and all component parts such as, but not limited to,
the primary sampling unit. seams,pockets,collars,andtopcenters(frontplacket)(seeFig.
4). Specimens shall be mounted as directed inAATCCTM143,
5.2 Laboratory Sampling Unit—For the test methods used
using appropriate photographic standards as described in Fig.
in this practice, take a minimum of two garments from each
1, Fig. 2, and Fig. 3 and AATCC TM88B. Acceptable
primary sampling unit to serve as both the laboratory sample
performance requirements shall be as agreed between the
and the test specimens.
purchaser and supplier.
6.3.5 Other Defects—Examine shirt(s) for any other obvi-
6. Characteristics and Conditions
ous defects.
6.1 Characteristics—Thecharacteristicstobeevaluatedand
6.3.6 Dimensional Change—Measure shirt(s) prior to laun-
the acceptance criteria assigned to these areas shall be set by
dering as directed in Section 7.
mutual agreement between purchaser and supplier.
6.4 Laundering Conditions:
6.2 Fabric Performance Characteristics—Evaluate the se-
lected characteristics of the shirt fabric by methods directed in 6.4.1 Wash Conditions—Wash and dry shirts according to
Performance Specification D3477 or Performance Specifica- the care label, using the applicable procedure in AATCC
tion D4154 as appropriate. TM150. Temperatures shall conform to those stated in Table 1.
FIG. 1 Collar 5
D4231 − 22
FIG. 2 Pocket
D4231 − 22
...

This document is not an ASTM standard and is intended only to provide the user of an ASTM standard an indication of what changes have been made to the previous version. Because
it may not be technically possible to adequately depict all changes accurately, ASTM recommends that users consult prior editions as appropriate. In all cases only the current version
of the standard as published by ASTM is to be considered the official document.
Designation: D4231 − 14 D4231 − 22
Standard Practice for
Evaluation of Launderable Woven Dress Shirts and Sports
Shirts
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D4231; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (´) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
1. Scope
1.1 This practice covers the evaluation of specific characteristics of importance in launderable woven dress shirts and sport shirts.
1.2 Any launderable woven dress shirt or sport shirt may be evaluated using this practice, but it shall not be construed to be a
standard of performance.
1.3 This practice may be used by mutual agreement between the purchaser and supplier to establish purchasing specifications.
1.4 This practice is not intended to be used in the evaluation of woven dress shirts or sport shirts when drycleaned or hand-washed.
1.5 This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization
established in the Decision on Principles for the Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued
by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.
2. Referenced Documents
2.1 ASTM Standards:
D123 Terminology Relating to Textiles
D1683 Test Method for Failure in Sewn Seams of Woven Fabrics
D1776 Practice for Conditioning and Testing Textiles
D3136 Terminology Relating to Care Labeling for Apparel, Textile, Home Furnishing, and Leather Products
D3477 Performance Specification for Men’s and Boys’ Woven Dress Shirt Fabrics (Withdrawn 2005)
D4154 Performance Specification for Men’s and Boys’ Knitted and Woven Beachwear and Sports Shirt Fabrics
D7022 Terminology Relating to Apparel (Withdrawn 2022)
2.2 AATCC Test Methods:
88BTM88B Smoothness of Seams in Fabrics After Repeated Home Laundering
143TM143 Appearance of Apparel and Other Textile End Products After Repeated Home Launderings
150TM150 Dimensional Changes of Garments after Home Laundering
172TM172 Colorfastness to Powdered Non-Chlorine Bleach in Home Laundering
This practice is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D13 on Textiles and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.61 on Apparel.
Current edition approved Feb. 1, 2014Nov. 1, 2022. Published March 2014December 2022. Originally approved in 1989. Last previous edition approved in 20082014 as
D4231 – 01D4231 – 14.(2008). DOI: 10.1520/D4231-14.10.1520/D4231-22.
For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, or contact ASTM Customer Service at [e-mail]. For Annual Book of ASTM Standards
volume information, refer to the standard’s Document Summary page on the ASTM website.
The last approved version of this historical standard is referenced on www.astm.org.
AATCC Technical Manual, available from American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC), P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709,
http://www.aatcc.org.
Copyright © ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959. United States
D4231 − 22
188TM188 Colorfastness to Sodium Hypochlorite Bleach in Home Laundering
Evaluation Procedure 1EP1 Gray Scale for Color Change
Evaluation Procedure 2
Evaluation Procedure 8
Monograph M6 Standardization of Home Laundry Test Conditions
2.3 ASTM Adjuncts:
Shirt Components- 15 Photographs
3. Terminology
3.1 Definitions—For definitions of textile terms used in this practice, refer to the individual ASTM Standards, AATCC Test
Methods, Terminology D123 and Terminology related to Apparel D7022.
3.2 Definitions of Terms Specific to This Standard:
3.2.1 dress shirt, n—a shirt designed to be worn with a tie and jacket and made with a specific collar size or numerical designation.
3.2.1.1 Discussion—
For men’s dress shirts, an additional size designation may be used to identify the sleeve length.
3.2.2 sport shirt, n—a shirt designed to be worn either informally or with a jacket, and which uses an alphabetical, numerical, or
alphanumerical size designator.
4. Significance and Use
4.1 This practice may be used to evaluate pertinent performance characteristics of men’s and boys’ launderable woven dress shirts
and sport shirts.
4.2 The characteristics to be evaluated and the acceptance criteria assigned to these areas shall be set by mutual agreement between
purchaser and supplier.
4.3 The uses and significance of specific properties are discussed in the appropriate test methods and performance specifications.
5. Sampling, Selection, and Number of Specimens
5.1 Primary Sampling Unit—For the test methods used in this practice, consider boxes or other shipping containers to be the
primary sampling unit.
5.2 Laboratory Sampling Unit—For the test methods used in this practice, take a minimum of two garments from each primary
sampling unit to serve as both the laboratory sample and the test specimens.
6. Characteristics and Conditions
6.1 Characteristics—The characteristics to be evaluated and the acceptance criteria assigned to these areas shall be set by mutual
agreement between purchaser and supplier.
6.2 Fabric Performance Characteristics—Evaluate the selected characteristics of the shirt fabric by methods directed in
Performance Specification D3477 or Performance Specification D4154 as appropriate.
6.3 Shirt Performance Characteristics Prior to Laundering.
6.3.1 Seam Failure—Evaluate seam failure as directed in Test Method D1683.
6.3.2 Seam Pucker—Examine shirt(s) for seam pucker using AATCC Method 88B TM88B and photographs described in Fig. 1,
Fig. 2, and Fig. 3 (See ADJD4231) .
Photographic standards for evaluating shirt components are available from ASTM International Headquarters. Order Adjunct NO. : ADJD4231.
D4231 − 22
FIG. 1 Collar 5
6.3.3 Shade Difference—Examine shirts(s) for shade difference from part to part as directed in AATCC Evaluation Procedure
1.EP1.
6.3.4 Shirt Appearance—Evaluate the shirts for appearance of fabric and all component parts such as, but not limited to, seams,
pockets, collars, and top centers (front placket) (see Fig. 4). Specimens shall be mounted as directed in AATCC Method 143,
TM143, using appropriate photographic standards as described in Fig. 1, Fig. 2, and Fig. 3 and AATCC 88B.TM88B. Acceptable
performance requirements shall be as agreed between the purchaser and supplier.
6.3.5 Other Defects—Examine shirt(s) for any other obvious defects.
6.3.6 Dimensional Change—Measure shirt(s) prior to laundering as directed in Section 7.
6.4 Laundering Conditions:
6.4.1 Wash Conditions—Wash and dry shirts according to the care label, using the applicable procedure in AATCC Method 150.
TM150. Temperatures shall conform to those stated in Table 1 of Terminology D3136.
6.4.1.1 Use any domestically available household laundry detergent as
...