Textiles - Dyestuffs - Part 1: General principles of testing coloured textiles for dyestuff identification (ISO 16373-1:2015)

This part of ISO 16373 gives the definition of the colourant classes and the relationship to textile fibres. It describes some procedures to identify qualitatively the colourant class used in textile material.

Textilien - Farbstoffe - Teil 1: Allgemeine Grundlagen der Prüfung farbiger Textilien zur Farbstoff-Identifikation (ISO 16373-1:2015)

Dieser Teil der ISO 16373 gibt die Definition der Farbmittelklassen und den Zusammenhang mit Textilfasern an.
Das vorliegende Dokument beschreibt einige Verfahren zur qualitativen Identifizierung der in einem Textilmaterial verwendeten Farbmittelklasse.

Textiles - Colorants - Partie 1: Principes généraux des essais d'identification des colorants des textiles colorés (ISO 16373-1:2015)

ISO 16373-1:2015 donne la définition des classes de matières colorantes et la relation avec les fibres textiles (Annexe A).
Elle décrit certains modes opératoires permettant d'identifier qualitativement la classe de la matière colorante utilisée dans la matière textile.

Tekstilije - Barvila - 1. del: Splošna načela preskušanja obarvanih tekstilij za identifikacijo barvil (ISO 16373-1:2015)

Ta del standarda ISO 16373 določa razrede barvil in povezavo s tekstilnimi vlakni.
Opisuje nekatere postopke za kvalitativno prepoznavanje razreda barvil, ki je bil uporabljen za tekstilni material.

General Information

Status
Published
Public Enquiry End Date
06-Jul-2014
Publication Date
03-Feb-2016
Current Stage
6060 - National Implementation/Publication (Adopted Project)
Start Date
27-Jan-2016
Due Date
02-Apr-2016
Completion Date
04-Feb-2016

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Standards Content (sample)

SLOVENSKI STANDARD
SIST EN ISO 16373-1:2016
01-marec-2016
7HNVWLOLMH%DUYLODGHO6SORãQDQDþHODSUHVNXãDQMDREDUYDQLKWHNVWLOLM]D
LGHQWLILNDFLMREDUYLO ,62

Textiles - Dyestuffs - Part 1: General principles of testing coloured textiles for dyestuff

identification (ISO 16373-1:2015)

Textilien - Farbstoffe - Teil 1: Allgemeine Grundlagen der Prüfung farbiger Textilien zur

Farbstoff-Identifikation (ISO 16373-1:2015)

Textiles - Colorants - Partie 1: Principes généraux des essais d'identification des

colorants des textiles colorés (ISO 16373-1:2015)
Ta slovenski standard je istoveten z: EN ISO 16373-1:2015
ICS:
59.080.01 Tekstilije na splošno Textiles in general
87.060.01 Sestavine barv na splošno Paint ingredients in general
SIST EN ISO 16373-1:2016 en,fr,de

2003-01.Slovenski inštitut za standardizacijo. Razmnoževanje celote ali delov tega standarda ni dovoljeno.

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SIST EN ISO 16373-1:2016
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SIST EN ISO 16373-1:2016
EN ISO 16373-1
EUROPEAN STANDARD
NORME EUROPÉENNE
December 2015
EUROPÄISCHE NORM
ICS 59.080.01
English Version
Textiles - Dyestuffs - Part 1: General principles of testing
coloured textiles for dyestuff identification (ISO 16373-
1:2015)

Textiles - Colorants - Partie 1: Principes généraux Textilien - Farbstoffe - Teil 1: Allgemeine Grundlagen

d'essais des textiles colorés pour l'identification des der Prüfung farbiger Textilien zur Farbstoff-

colorants (ISO 16373-1:2015) Identifikation (ISO 16373-1:2015)
This European Standard was approved by CEN on 31 October 2015.

CEN members are bound to comply with the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations which stipulate the conditions for giving this

European Standard the status of a national standard without any alteration. Up-to-date lists and bibliographical references

concerning such national standards may be obtained on application to the CEN-CENELEC Management Centre or to any CEN

member.

This European Standard exists in three official versions (English, French, German). A version in any other language made by

translation under the responsibility of a CEN member into its own language and notified to the CEN-CENELEC Management

Centre has the same status as the official versions.

CEN members are the national standards bodies of Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia,

Finland, Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania,

Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Turkey and

United Kingdom.
EUROPEAN COMMITTEE FOR STANDARDIZATION
COMITÉ EUROPÉEN DE NORMALISATION
EUROPÄISCHES KOMITEE FÜR NORMUNG
CEN-CENELEC Management Centre: Avenue Marnix 17, B-1000 Brussels

© 2015 CEN All rights of exploitation in any form and by any means reserved Ref. No. EN ISO 16373-1:2015 E

worldwide for CEN national Members.
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SIST EN ISO 16373-1:2016
EN ISO 16373-1:2015 (E)
Contents Page

European foreword ....................................................................................................................................................... 3

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SIST EN ISO 16373-1:2016
EN ISO 16373-1:2015 (E)
European foreword

This document (EN ISO 16373-1:2015) has been prepared by Technical Committee ISO/TC 38

"Textiles" in collaboration with Technical Committee CEN/TC 248 “Textiles and textile products” the

secretariat of which is held by BSI.

This European Standard shall be given the status of a national standard, either by publication of an

identical text or by endorsement, at the latest by June 2016, and conflicting national standards shall be

withdrawn at the latest by June 2016.

Attention is drawn to the possibility that some of the elements of this document may be the subject of

patent rights. CEN [and/or CENELEC] shall not be held responsible for identifying any or all such patent

rights.

According to the CEN-CENELEC Internal Regulations, the national standards organizations of the

following countries are bound to implement this European Standard: Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria,

Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia,

France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta,

Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland,

Turkey and the United Kingdom.
Endorsement notice

The text of ISO 16373-1:2015 has been approved by CEN as EN ISO 16373-1:2015 without any

modification.
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SIST EN ISO 16373-1:2016
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SIST EN ISO 16373-1:2016
INTERNATIONAL ISO
STANDARD 16373-1
First edition
2015-12-15
Textiles — Dyestuffs —
Part 1:
General principles of testing coloured
textiles for dyestuff identification
Textiles — Colorants —
Partie 1: Principes généraux d’essais des textiles colorés pour
l’identification des colorants
Reference number
ISO 16373-1:2015(E)
ISO 2015
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SIST EN ISO 16373-1:2016
ISO 16373-1:2015(E)
COPYRIGHT PROTECTED DOCUMENT
© ISO 2015, Published in Switzerland

All rights reserved. Unless otherwise specified, no part of this publication may be reproduced or utilized otherwise in any form

or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, or posting on the internet or an intranet, without prior

written permission. Permission can be requested from either ISO at the address below or ISO’s member body in the country of

the requester.
ISO copyright office
Ch. de Blandonnet 8 • CP 401
CH-1214 Vernier, Geneva, Switzerland
Tel. +41 22 749 01 11
Fax +41 22 749 09 47
copyright@iso.org
www.iso.org
ii © ISO 2015 – All rights reserved
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SIST EN ISO 16373-1:2016
ISO 16373-1:2015(E)
Contents Page

Foreword ........................................................................................................................................................................................................................................iv

Introduction ..................................................................................................................................................................................................................................v

1 Scope ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................. 1

2 Normative references ...................................................................................................................................................................................... 1

3 Terms and definitions ..................................................................................................................................................................................... 1

4 Fibre identification ............................................................................................................................................................................................ 2

5 Dye classes, based on the method of applying the dye .................................................................................................. 2

5.1 Acid dye ......................................................................................................................................................................................................... 2

5.2 Metal complex acid dye .................................................................................................................................................................... 2

5.2.1 1:1 Metal complex dye ................................................................................................................................................ 2

5.2.2 1:2 Metal complex dye ................................................................................................................................................ 2

5.3 Azoic dye....................................................................................................................................................................................................... 2

5.4 Basic dye (also called cationic dye) ....................................................................................................................................... 2

5.5 Mordant dye .............................................................................................................................................................................................. 3

5.6 Direct dye ..................................................................................................................................................................................................... 3

5.7 Disperse dye .............................................................................................................................................................................................. 3

5.8 Reactive dye ............................................................................................................................................................................................... 3

5.8.1 General...................................................................................................................................................................................... 3

5.8.2 Anthraquinone reactive dye ................................................................................................................................... 3

5.9 Sulfur dye ..................................................................................................................................................................................................... 3

5.10 VAT dye .......................................................................................................................................................................................................... 3

6 Complementary dye class, based on chemist classification: Azo dye ............................................................3

7 Reagents ........................................................................................................................................................................................................................ 4

8 Apparatus ..................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 5

9 Conditioning and testing atmosphere ............................................................................................................................................ 5

10 Preparation of the test specimens ..................................................................................................................................................... 5

11 Procedures (examples) .................................................................................................................................................................................. 5

11.1 Pigment identification ...................................................................................................................................................................... 5

11.2 Finishing removal treatment ...................................................................................................................................................... 5

11.3 Acid dyes, basic, direct dyes and reactive dyes ............................................................................................................ 5

11.4 VAT dyes, sulfur dyes, reactive dyes, aniline black, azoic dyes, direct dyes,

developed disperse dyes and chrome dyes .................................................................................................................... 5

11.5 Metal-complex dyes and disperse dyes ............................................................................................................................. 5

11.6 Extraction test.......................................................................................................................................................................................... 5

11.7 Ash test .......................................................................................................................................................................................................... 5

11.8 Miscellaneous tests ............................................................................................................................................................................. 6

12 Testing report .......................................................................................................................................................................................................... 6

Annex A (informative) Explanatory table of colourants (dyes and pigments) used in various

textile materials .................................................................................................................................................................................................13

Annex B (informative) Comparison between ISO 16373-2 and ISO 16373-3: Recovery rates ..............15

Bibliography .............................................................................................................................................................................................................................17

© ISO 2015 – All rights reserved iii
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SIST EN ISO 16373-1:2016
ISO 16373-1:2015(E)
Foreword

ISO (the International Organization for Standardization) is a worldwide federation of national standards

bodies (ISO member bodies). The work of preparing International Standards is normally carried out

through ISO technical committees. Each member body interested in a subject for which a technical

committee has been established has the right to be represented on that committee. International

organizations, governmental and non-governmental, in liaison with ISO, also take part in the work.

ISO collaborates closely with the International Electrotechnical Commission (IEC) on all matters of

electrotechnical standardization.

The procedures used to develop this document and those intended for its further maintenance are

described in the ISO/IEC Directives, Part 1. In particular the different approval criteria needed for the

different types of ISO documents should be noted. This document was drafted in accordance with the

editorial rules of the ISO/IEC Directives, Part 2 (see www.iso.org/directives).

Attention is drawn to the possibility that some of the elements of this document may be the subject of

patent rights. ISO shall not be held responsible for identifying any or all such patent rights. Details of

any patent rights identified during the development of the document will be in the Introduction and/or

on the ISO list of patent declarations received (see www.iso.org/patents).

Any trade name used in this document is information given for the convenience of users and does not

constitute an endorsement.

For an explanation on the meaning of ISO specific terms and expressions related to conformity

assessment, as well as information about ISO’s adherence to the WTO principles in the Technical

Barriers to Trade (TBT) see the following URL: Foreword - Supplementary information

ISO 16373-1 was prepared by the European Committee for Standardization (CEN) Technical Committee

CEN/TC 248, Textiles and textile products, in collaboration with ISO Technical Committee TC 38, Textiles,

in accordance with the Agreement on technical cooperation between ISO and CEN (Vienna Agreement).

ISO 16373 consists of the following parts, under the general title Textiles — Dyestuffs:

— Part 1: General principles of testing coloured textiles for dyestuff identification

— Part 2: General method for the determination of extractable dyestuffs including allergenic and

carcinogenic dyestuffs (method using pyridine-water)

— Part 3: Method for determination of certain carcinogenic dyestuffs (method using triethylamine/methanol)

iv © ISO 2015 – All rights reserved
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SIST EN ISO 16373-1:2016
ISO 16373-1:2015(E)
Introduction

The ISO 16373- series deals with dyes used in textiles for qualification and quantification.

This part of ISO 16373 includes the definition of the classes of dyes, the description of some procedures

to identify qualitatively the class of dyes used in textile material.
The other parts of ISO 16373 are related to the quantification of some dyes.

— The principle of the test method in ISO 16373-2 is based on the extraction using pyridine-water

solution, which has been found to be the most efficient solution to extract a large range of dyes,

including allergenic and carcinogenic dyes.

— The principle of the test method in ISO 16373-3 is based on the extraction using triethylamine-

methanol solution. This solution has been found efficient to extract some dyes in some cases.

Additional information related to the recovery rates (to characterize the extraction efficiency) obtained

from the application of ISO 16373-2 and ISO 16373-3 are summarized in Annex B.

It is important to note that there are other test methods related to azo dyes, for which a reduction of the

extracted azo dyes leads to the release of some aromatic amines to be detected and determined using

chromatography (See Bibliography/Aromatic amines determination).
© ISO 2015 – All rights reserved v
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SIST EN ISO 16373-1:2016
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SIST EN ISO 16373-1:2016
INTERNATIONAL STANDARD ISO 16373-1:2015(E)
Textiles — Dyestuffs —
Part 1:
General principles of testing coloured textiles for dyestuff
identification

WARNING — This document calls for the use of substances/procedures that may be injurious

to the health/environment if appropriate conditions are not observed. It refers only to

technical suitability and does not absolve the user from legal obligations relating to health and

safety/environment at any stage.
1 Scope

This part of ISO 16373 gives the definition of the colourant classes and the relationship to textile fibres.

It describes some procedures to identify qualitatively the colourant class used in textile material.

2 Normative references

The following documents, in whole or in part, are normatively referenced in this document and are

indispensable for its application. For dated references, only the edition cited applies. For undated

references, the latest edition of the referenced document (including any amendments) applies.

ISO 3696, Water for analytical laboratory use — Specification and test methods

ISO 5089, Textiles — Preparation of laboratory test samples and test specimens for chemical testing

3 Terms and definitions
For the purposes of this document, the following terms and definitions apply.
3.1
colourant
dye or pigment
3.2
dye
dyestuff
water-insoluble or water-soluble molecule which has dyeing affinity with fibre

Note 1 to entry: The defining difference between a dye and a pigment is its solubility in an aqueous medium. In

this part of ISO 16373, the term “affinity” is used as a qualitative expression, although affinity is the quantitative

expression of substantivity and usually expressed in Joules per mole, where substantivity is the attraction

between a substrate and a dye or other substance under precise conditions where the latter is selectively

extracted from the application medium by the substrate.
© ISO 2015 – All rights reserved 1
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SIST EN ISO 16373-1:2016
ISO 16373-1:2015(E)
3.3
pigment
water-insoluble molecule which has no dyeing affinity with fibre

Note 1 to entry: The defining difference between a dye and a pigment is its solubility in an aqueous medium. In

this part of ISO 16373, the term “affinity” is used as a qualitative expression, although affinity is the quantitative

expression of substantivity and usually expressed in Joules per mole, where substantivity is the attraction

between a substrate and a dye or other substance under precise conditions where the latter is selectively

extracted from
...

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