FprEN 18039

Mountaineering equipment - Autobelay devices for recreational use - Safety requirements and test methods

This document specifies requirements, test methods, marking and information to be supplied for autobelay devices, intended to protect against falls during recreational use in a climbing structure. An autobelay device is a movable personal fall protection system for single person use.
This document does not specify requirements for descender devices or retractable fall arresters that are used for descending/climbing in mountaineering, rescue, rope access, fall arrest or work positioning systems.
NOTE 1   A climbing structure is e.g. a ropes course, a climbing gym.
NOTE 2   An autobelay device which enables the user to belay and descent himself and which conforms to this document is personal protective equipment (PPE).
NOTE 3   For mountaineering standards, see Annex D.

Persönliche Absturzschutzausrüstung - Selbstsicherungs-Automaten im Freizeitsportbereich - Sicherheitsanforderungen und Prüfverfahren

Dieses Dokument legt Anforderungen, Prüfverfahren, Kennzeichnungen und Informationen fest, die für automatische Selbstsicherungsgeräte, die als Schutz gegen Abstürzen bei der Freizeitnutzung in einer Kletteranlage bestimmt sind, bereitzustellen sind. Ein automatisches Selbstsicherungsgerät ist ein bewegliches persönliches Absturzsicherungssystem für die Benutzung durch eine einzelne Person.
Dieses Dokument legt keine Anforderungen für Abseilgeräte oder aufrollbare Absturzsicherungen fest, die zum Abseilen/Klettern in Systemen des Bergsteigens, der Rettung, der Seilzugangstechnik, der Absturzsicherung oder der Arbeitspositionierung verwendet werden.
ANMERKUNG 1   Eine Kletteranlage ist z. B. ein Seilgarten, eine Kletterhalle.
ANMERKUNG 2   Ein automatisches Selbstsicherungsgerät, das es dem Benutzer ermöglicht, sich selbst zu sichern und abzuseilen, und das diesem Dokument entspricht, ist eine persönliche Schutzausrüstung (PSA).
ANMERKUNG 3   Für Normen für Bergsteigerausrüstung siehe Anhang D.

Equipement d'alpinisme et d'escalade - Auto-assureur automatique pour le loisir

Gorniška oprema - Samovarovala za rekreativno uporabo - Varnostne zahteve in preskusne metode

General Information

• Status: Not Published
• Publication Date: 14-May-2025
• ICS: 13.340.60 - Protection against falling and slipping
• ICS: 97.220.40 - Outdoor and water sports equipment
• Technical Committee: CEN/TC 136 - Sports, playground and other recreational equipment
• Drafting Committee: CEN/TC 136/WG 5 - Mountaineering and climbing equipment
• Current Stage: 4599 - Dispatch of FV draft to CMC - Finalization for Vote
• Start Date: 13-Nov-2024
• Due Date: 26-Nov-2024
• Completion Date: 13-Nov-2024
• Directive: 2016/425 - Regulation (EU) 2016/425 of the European Parliament and of the Council of 9 March 2016 on personal protective equipment and repealing Council Directive 89/686/EEC
• Mandate: M/571 - COMMISSION IMPLEMENTING DECISION of 19.11.2020 on a standardisation request to the European Committee for Standardization and the European Committee for Electrotechnical Standardization as regards personal protective equipment in support of Regulation (EU) 2016/425 of the European Parliament and of the Council
• Ref Project: oSIST prEN 18039:2024 - Mountaineering equipment - Autobelay devices for recreational use - Safety requirements and test methods

Standards Content (Sample)

SLOVENSKI STANDARD
01-junij-2024
Gorniška oprema - Samovarovala za rekreativno uporabo - Varnostne zahteve in
preskusne metode
Mountaineering equipment - Autobelay devices for recreational use - Safety
requirements and test methods
Persönliche Absturzschutzausrüstung - Selbstsicherungs-Automaten im
Freizeitsportbereich - Sicherheitsanforderungen und Prüfverfahren
Equipement d'alpinisme et d'escalade - Auto-assureur automatique pour le loisir
Ta slovenski standard je istoveten z: prEN 18039
ICS:
97.220.40 Oprema za športe na Outdoor and water sports
prostem in vodne športe equipment
2003-01.Slovenski inštitut za standardizacijo. Razmnoževanje celote ali delov tega standarda ni dovoljeno.

DRAFT
EUROPEAN STANDARD
prEN 18039
NORME EUROPÉENNE
EUROPÄISCHE NORM
March 2024
ICS 97.220.40
English Version
Mountaineering equipment - Autobelay devices for
recreational use - Safety requirements and test methods
Equipement d'alpinisme et d'escalade - Auto-assureur Bergsteigerausrüstung - Automatische
automatique pour le loisir Selbstsicherungsgeräte für Freizeitnutzung
This draft European Standard is submitted to CEN members for enquiry. It has been drawn up by the Technical Committee
CEN/TC 136.
If this draft becomes a European Standard, CEN members are bound to comply with the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations
which stipulate the conditions for giving this European Standard the status of a national standard without any alteration.

This draft European Standard was established by CEN in three official versions (English, French, German). A version in any other
language made by translation under the responsibility of a CEN member into its own language and notified to the CEN-CENELEC
Management Centre has the same status as the official versions.

CEN members are the national standards bodies of Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia,
Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway,
Poland, Portugal, Republic of North Macedonia, Romania, Serbia, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Türkiye and
United Kingdom.
Recipients of this draft are invited to submit, with their comments, notification of any relevant patent rights of which they are
aware and to provide supporting documentation.

Warning : This document is not a European Standard. It is distributed for review and comments. It is subject to change without
notice and shall not be referred to as a European Standard.

EUROPEAN COMMITTEE FOR STANDARDIZATION
COMITÉ EUROPÉEN DE NORMALISATION

EUROPÄISCHES KOMITEE FÜR NORMUNG

CEN-CENELEC Management Centre: Rue de la Science 23, B-1040 Brussels
© 2024 CEN All rights of exploitation in any form and by any means reserved Ref. No. prEN 18039:2024 E
worldwide for CEN national Members.

prEN 18039:2024 (E)
Contents Page
European foreword . 4
1 Scope . 5
2 Normative references . 5
3 Terms and definitions . 6
4 Requirements . 10
4.1 Design, materials and construction . 10
4.1.1 General. 10
4.1.2 Retractable safety line . 11
4.1.3 Connection element . 12
4.1.4 Safety line extension . 12
4.2 Retraction system . 13
4.2.1 Retraction system check . 13
4.2.2 Retraction system malfunction . 13
4.2.3 Twisting . 13
4.2.4 Retraction speed . 13
4.3 Dynamic strength . 13
4.3.1 Dynamic strength performance . 13
4.3.2 Dyno performance . 13
4.3.3 Freefall performance . 14
4.3.4 Dynamic performance of energy dissipating element . 14
4.4 Function . 14
4.4.1 General. 14
4.4.2 Standard use . 14
4.4.3 Use in wet and cold conditions . 14
4.4.4 Use in wet and very cold conditions . 15
4.4.5 Use in dry and very cold conditions . 15
4.5 Descent energy. 15
4.6 Static strength . 16
4.7 Corrosion resistance . 16
4.8 Electrical supported systems . 16
5 Test methods . 17
5.1 Test samples . 17
5.2 Examination . 17
5.3 Retraction system tests . 17
5.3.1 Retraction system check . 17
5.3.2 Retraction system malfunction . 17
5.3.3 Twisting . 18
prEN 18039:2024 (E)
5.3.4 Retraction speed . 19
5.4 Dynamic strength tests . 19
5.4.1 Shock load test of autobelay device . 19
5.4.2 Dyno test of autobelay devices . 20
5.4.3 Free fall performance test for autobelay device class B . 22
5.4.4 Dynamic performance of safety line extension with energy dissipating element . 23
5.5 Function tests . 23
5.5.1 Dry condition . 23
5.5.2 Wet condition . 23
5.5.3 Wet and cold condition . 23
5.5.4 Wet and very cold condition . 24
5.5.5 Dry and very cold condition . 24
5.6 Descent energy test . 24
5.7 Static strength test . 26
5.7.1 General . 26
5.7.2 Static strength test of safety line end termination in autobelay device . 26
5.7.3 Static strength test of autobelay device . 27
5.7.4 Static strength of retractable safety line . 27
5.8 Corrosion resistance test . 27
6 Marking . 28
6.1 General . 28
6.2 On the device . 28
6.3 On a termination of the retractable safety line. 28
6.4 On the climb start . 29
7 Manufacturer’s instructions and information . 29
Annex A (informative) Autobelay Device Belay Gate . 31
Annex B (informative) Examples for pictograms at autobelay device climbing start . 32
Annex C (informative) Speed climbing immanent risk . 33
Annex D (informative) Standards on mountaineering equipment . 34
Annex ZA (informative) Relationship between this European Standard and the safety
requirements of Directive 2001/95/EC aimed to be covered . 36
Bibliography . 37

prEN 18039:2024 (E)
European foreword
This document (prEN 18039:2024) has been prepared by Technical Committee CEN/TC 136 WG 5
“Mountaineering Equipment”, the secretariat of which is held by DIN.
This document is currently submitted to the CEN Enquiry.
This document has been prepared under a standardization request addressed to CEN by the European
Commission. The Standing Committee of the EFTA States subsequently approves these requests for its
Member States.
For the relationship with EU Legislation, see informative Annex ZA, which is an integral part of this
document.
prEN 18039:2024 (E)
1 Scope
This document specifies requirements, test methods, marking and information to be supplied for
autob
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