EN 17848:2023
(Main)Leather - Chemicals - Quality control
Leather - Chemicals - Quality control
This guideline provides a list of recommended tests that can be used to assess the quality of chemicals used in tanning process.
This guideline applies to chemicals whose application has the same effect on leather, grouped in families.
Leder - Chemikalien - Qualitätskontrolle
Dieser Leitfaden enthält eine Liste empfohlener Prüfungen, mit denen die Qualität der im Gerbungsverfahren verwendeten Chemikalien bewertet werden kann.
Dieser Leitfaden gilt für Chemikalien, deren Anwendung die gleiche Auswirkung auf Leder hat, gruppiert in Familien.
Cuir - Produits chimiques - Contrôle de la qualité
Le présent document dresse une liste d’essais recommandés pouvant être utilisés pour évaluer la qualité des produits chimiques utilisés dans le processus de fabrication du cuir.
Le présent document est applicable aux produits chimiques, regroupés par familles, dont l’application a le même effet sur le cuir.
Usnje - Kemikalije - Kontrola kakovosti
Ta dokument vsebuje seznam priporočenih preskusov, ki jih je mogoče uporabiti za ocenjevanje kakovosti kemičnih proizvodov, uporabljenih v postopku izdelave usnja.
Ta dokument se uporablja za kemične proizvode, katerih uporaba ima enak učinek kot usnje in so razvrščeni v skupine.
General Information
Standards Content (Sample)
SLOVENSKI STANDARD
01-julij-2023
Usnje - Kemikalije - Kontrola kakovosti
Leather - Chemicals - Quality control
Leder - Chemikalien - Qualitätskontrolle
Cuir - Produits chimiques - Contrôle de la qualité
Ta slovenski standard je istoveten z: EN 17848:2023
ICS:
01.040.59 Tekstilna in usnjarska Textile and leather
tehnologija (Slovarji) technology (Vocabularies)
59.140.10 Postopki in pomožni materiali Processes and auxiliary
materials
2003-01.Slovenski inštitut za standardizacijo. Razmnoževanje celote ali delov tega standarda ni dovoljeno.
EN 17848
EUROPEAN STANDARD
NORME EUROPÉENNE
May 2023
EUROPÄISCHE NORM
ICS 01.040.59; 59.140.10
English Version
Leather - Chemicals - Quality control
Cuir - Produits chimiques - Contrôle de la qualité Leder - Chemikalien - Qualitätskontrolle
This European Standard was approved by CEN on 17 March 2023.
CEN members are bound to comply with the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations which stipulate the conditions for giving this
European Standard the status of a national standard without any alteration. Up-to-date lists and bibliographical references
concerning such national standards may be obtained on application to the CEN-CENELEC Management Centre or to any CEN
member.
This European Standard exists in three official versions (English, French, German). A version in any other language made by
translation under the responsibility of a CEN member into its own language and notified to the CEN-CENELEC Management
Centre has the same status as the official versions.
CEN members are the national standards bodies of Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia,
Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway,
Poland, Portugal, Republic of North Macedonia, Romania, Serbia, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Türkiye and
United Kingdom.
EUROPEAN COMMITTEE FOR STANDARDIZATION
COMITÉ EUROPÉEN DE NORMALISATION
EUROPÄISCHES KOMITEE FÜR NORMUNG
CEN-CENELEC Management Centre: Rue de la Science 23, B-1040 Brussels
© 2023 CEN All rights of exploitation in any form and by any means reserved Ref. No. EN 17848:2023 E
worldwide for CEN national Members.
Contents Page
European foreword . 3
Introduction . 4
1 Scope . 5
2 Normative references . 5
3 Terms and definitions . 5
3.1 Families of chemical products . 5
3.2 Product's characteristics . 8
4 Product families and characteristics . 11
Bibliography . 19
European foreword
This document (EN 17848:2023) has been prepared by Technical Committee CEN/TC 289 “Leather”, the
secretariat of which is held by UNI.
This European Standard shall be given the status of a national standard, either by publication of an
identical text or by endorsement, at the latest by November 2023, and conflicting national standards
shall be withdrawn at the latest by November 2023.
Attention is drawn to the possibility that some of the elements of this document may be the subject of
patent rights. CEN shall not be held responsible for identifying any or all such patent rights.
Any feedback and questions on this document should be directed to the users’ national standards body. A
complete listing of these bodies can be found on the CEN website.
According to the CEN-CENELEC Internal Regulations, the national standards organisations of the
following countries are bound to implement this European Standard: Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia,
Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland,
Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Republic of North
Macedonia, Romania, Serbia, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Türkiye and the United
Kingdom.
Introduction
By recovering a valuable organic material, tanneries have historically set themselves the goal of
developing and managing its transformation into a high value-added material.
Chemical products, which are fundamental in the various processing stages in order to obtain rot-proof
and long-lasting durable leather, provide the aesthetic and chemical-physical properties that
characterize its final use. Their characteristics and performance need to be ensured by a quality
constancy, which can be assessed through appropriate analysis and controls.
1 Scope
This document provides a list of recommended tests that can be used to assess the quality of chemical
products used in the leather manufacturing process.
This document is applicable to chemical products whose application has the same effect on leather,
grouped in families.
2 Normative references
There are no normative references in this document.
3 Terms and definitions
For the purposes of this document, the following terms and definitions apply.
ISO and IEC maintain terminological databases for use in standardization at the following addresses:
— IEC Electropedia: available at https://www.electropedia.org/
— ISO Online browsing platform: available at https://www.iso.org/obp
3.1 Families of chemical products
Chemical products whose application has the same effect on leather, grouped in families
3.1.1
base
chemical species or molecular entity having an available pair of electrons capable of forming a covalent
bond with a hydron (proton) or with the vacant orbital of some other species
3.1.2
acid
chemical species or molecular entity capable of donating a hydron (proton) or capable of forming a
covalent bond with an electron pair
3.1.3
inorganic salt
inorganic chemical compound consisting of an assembly of cations and anion
3.1.4
organic salt as masking agent
salified organic acids able to modify or mask the behaviour of chrome salts in coordinating with collagen
3.1.5
surfactant
degreasing agent
substances that have the property of lowering the surface tension of a liquid, facilitating the wettability
of the surfaces or the miscibility between different liquids
3.1.6
enzymatic mixture
based on enzymatic principles such as protease or lipase used in the skin maceration or degreasing
phase
3.1.7
biocide
substances or mixtures capable of inhibiting or controlling fungal or bacterial growth in the leather
process
3.1.8
anti-wrinkle agent
substances or mixtures capable of attenuating, eliminating or preventing the formation of wrinkles on
the grain of the leather
3.1.9
deliming agent
organic or inorganic substances or mixtures capable of removing lime by converting it into soluble salts
3.1.10
solvent
organic products based on aliphatic, aromatic, alcohol, glycols, ketones and esters
3.1.11
fatliquoring agent
products with a lubricant effect of the skin fibers, modifying the properties of softness and resistance
3.1.12
mineral tanning salt
inorganic products capable of binding to collagen increasing its hydrothermal stability and resistance to
putrefaction
3.1.13
vegetable tannin
products of vegetable origin capable of binding to collagen increasing its hydrothermal stability and
resistance to putrefaction
3.1.14
synthetic tanning agent
syntan
industrial synthesis products capable of binding to collagen increasing its hydrothermal stability and
resistance to putrefaction
3.1.15
organic tanning agent
organic products capable of binding to collagen increasing its hydrothermal stability and resistance to
putrefaction
3.1.16
wet-end resin
synthetic product obtained by condensation of the same monomer (polymer) or different monomers
(copolymer), used to modify the fibre structure during the wet processing stages
3.1.17
organic filler
organic products capable of creating a filling effect
3.1.18
inorganic filler
inorganic products capable of creating a filling effect
3.1.19
dyestuff
anionic or cationic, coloured water soluble substance that chemically bonds to the substrate to which it is
being applied
3.1.20
finishing resin
synthetic polymers able to make cross-linking reaction with other polymers or proteins, used during the
finishing stages
3.1.21
natural binder
substances of vegetable or animal origin, typically caseins and albumins, used for glazable finishing
3.1.22
finishing dye
coloured substances, often in solvent without salts, for colouring the leather surface
3.1.23
finishing solvent and thinner
polar or apolar solvents used singly or mixed together
3.1.24
pigment
crystalline powders with covering capabilities able to give their colour to the substrate on which they are
applied
3.1.25
compound
mixture of several substances used in the finishing process
3.1.26
finishing auxiliary
substances added in small doses to the finishing mixtures to modify their characteristics or facilitate the
execution of specific steps in the finishing process
3.1.27
finishing wax
natural or synthetic substances with low melting point characterized by a greasy and waxy feel
3.1.28
strain-levelling agent
additives able to modify viscosity and surface tension of a finishing mixture, improving its distension
3.1.29
touch modifier
substance able to give the desired touch to the leather surface and it can be water emulsions, solvent
solutions or dispersed into the binders
3.1.30
oil
lubricating substances of vegetable or mineral origin used as touch modifiers or to improve the grain
flexibility
3.1.31
matting auxiliary
crystalline substances of organic or inorganic nature with high refractive index usually used in aqueous
emulsions or dispersed in lacquers and organic solvents to modify finishing brilliance
3.1.32
finishing filler
inert and typically inorganic substances with high specific weight used to level and make uniform the
surface of the leather
3.1.33
penetrating agent
surfactants or solvents used to improve the wettability, the penetration and the adhesion of the finishing
mixture
3.1.34
waterproofing agent
substances that can be found under various compositions such as wax and paraffin mixtures, chromium
stearates, fluorinated hydrocarbons, chloroparaffins, fatty acids, natural oils and fats
3.1.35
crosslinking agent
organic or inorganic substances capable of crosslinking polyfunctional polymers
3.2 Product's characteristics
3.2.1
visual appearance
product physical appearance (liquid, powder), colour and consistency (fluid, pasty)
3.2.2
smell
characteristic of a product that can be recognized or noticed using the nose
3.2.3
active substance
active part of a substance or compound producing a chemical effect, capable of performing the declared
application function
3.2.4
concentration
percentage of the declared active components
3.2.5
dry content
percentage of product after being subjected to 102 °C until a constant weight
3.2.6
titre
concentration (which is determined by the titration or instrumental analysis) of a constituent of a
solution; it can be expressed in various ways: more commonly in grams of substance (element,
compound) per litre of solution
3.2.7
pH
degree of acidity or basicity of an aqueous solution calculated as the negative value of the natural
logarithm of the hydrogen content (expressed in grams) per litre of solution where the neutral pH, that
of water, which has a value of 7 (lower values indicate the acid solutions, higher values than basic ones)
3.2.8
specific weight
ratio of the weight of a product and its volume
3.2.9
density
ratio of the mass of a product and its volume
3.2.10
viscosity
measure of the fluid resistance to deformation at a given rate and is conceptualized as quantifying the
internal frictional force that arises between adjacent layers of fluid that are in relative motion
3.2.11
solubility
miscibility of a solute in a solvent under certain conditions of temperature and pressure; the maximum
quantity of a solute which in these conditions dissolves in a given quantity of solvent, forming a single
phase
3.2.12
yield
ratio between the concentration of a sample and that of a standard sample, which can be determined
either by dyeing on a suitable support (leather, paper, etc.) or spectrophotometrically, by calculating the
ratio of the maximum absorbance of a sample and the same value measured on a standard sample
3.2.13
enzymatic units
amount of an enzyme, which degrades a given amount of substrate under given conditions
3.2.14
free acidity of fatliquors
amount of free fatty acids in the product, expressed as percent of oleic acid (equivalent) in the fatliquor
or as mg of potassium hydroxide necessary to neutralize 1 g of fatliquor
3.2.15
basicity of a mineral tanning agent
ratio between the number of hydroxyl groups bound to a metal atom (i.e. Cr, Al, Zr, etc.) and the total
numbe
...
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