EN 17848:2023

Leather - Chemicals - Quality control

This guideline provides a list of recommended tests that can be used to assess the quality of chemicals used in tanning process.
This guideline applies to chemicals whose application has the same effect on leather, grouped in families.

Leder - Chemikalien - Qualitätskontrolle

Dieser Leitfaden enthält eine Liste empfohlener Prüfungen, mit denen die Qualität der im Gerbungsverfahren verwendeten Chemikalien bewertet werden kann.
Dieser Leitfaden gilt für Chemikalien, deren Anwendung die gleiche Auswirkung auf Leder hat, gruppiert in Familien.

Cuir - Produits chimiques - Contrôle de la qualité

Le présent document dresse une liste d’essais recommandés pouvant être utilisés pour évaluer la qualité des produits chimiques utilisés dans le processus de fabrication du cuir.
Le présent document est applicable aux produits chimiques, regroupés par familles, dont l’application a le même effet sur le cuir.

Usnje - Kemikalije - Kontrola kakovosti

General Information

• Status: Published
• Publication Date: 02-May-2023
• ICS: 01.040.59 - Textile and leather technology (Vocabularies)
• ICS: 59.140.10 - Processes and auxiliary materials
• Technical Committee: CEN/TC 289 - Leather
• Drafting Committee: CEN/TC 289/WG 4 - Technical specifications on the use of leather and terminology
• Current Stage: 6060 - Definitive text made available (DAV) - Publishing
• Start Date: 03-May-2023
• Due Date: 07-Apr-2023
• Completion Date: 03-May-2023
• Ref Project: kSIST FprEN 17848:2023 - Leather - Chemicals - Quality control

Standards Content (Sample)

SLOVENSKI STANDARD
oSIST prEN 17848:2022
01-julij-2022
Usnje - Kemikalije - Kontrola kakovosti
Leather - Chemicals - Quality control
Leder - Chemikalien - Qualitätskontrolle
Cuir - Produits chimiques - Contrôle de la qualité
Ta slovenski standard je istoveten z: prEN 17848
ICS:
01.040.59 Tekstilna in usnjarska Textile and leather
tehnologija (Slovarji) technology (Vocabularies)
59.140.10 Postopki in pomožni materiali Processes and auxiliary
materials
oSIST prEN 17848:2022 en,fr,de

2003-01.Slovenski inštitut za standardizacijo. Razmnoževanje celote ali delov tega standarda ni dovoljeno.

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oSIST prEN 17848:2022
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oSIST prEN 17848:2022
DRAFT
EUROPEAN STANDARD
prEN 17848
NORME EUROPÉENNE
EUROPÄISCHE NORM
May 2022
ICS 01.040.59; 59.140.10
English Version
Leather - Chemicals - Quality control

Cuir - Produits chimiques - Contrôle de la qualité Leder - Chemikalien - Qualitätskontrolle

This draft European Standard is submitted to CEN members for enquiry. It has been drawn up by the Technical Committee

CEN/TC 289.

If this draft becomes a European Standard, CEN members are bound to comply with the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations

which stipulate the conditions for giving this European Standard the status of a national standard without any alteration.

This draft European Standard was established by CEN in three official versions (English, French, German). A version in any other

language made by translation under the responsibility of a CEN member into its own language and notified to the CEN-CENELEC

Management Centre has the same status as the official versions.

CEN members are the national standards bodies of Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia,

Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway,

Poland, Portugal, Republic of North Macedonia, Romania, Serbia, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Turkey and

United Kingdom.

Recipients of this draft are invited to submit, with their comments, notification of any relevant patent rights of which they are

aware and to provide supporting documentation.

Warning : This document is not a European Standard. It is distributed for review and comments. It is subject to change without

notice and shall not be referred to as a European Standard.
EUROPEAN COMMITTEE FOR STANDARDIZATION
COMITÉ EUROPÉEN DE NORMALISATION
EUROPÄISCHES KOMITEE FÜR NORMUNG
CEN-CENELEC Management Centre: Rue de la Science 23, B-1040 Brussels

© 2022 CEN All rights of exploitation in any form and by any means reserved Ref. No. prEN 17848:2022 E

worldwide for CEN national Members.
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Contents Page

European foreword ....................................................................................................................................................... 3

Introduction ..................................................................................................................................................................... 4

1 Scope .................................................................................................................................................................... 5

2 Normative references .................................................................................................................................... 5

3 Terms and definitions .................................................................................................................................... 5

3.1 Families of products ....................................................................................................................................... 5

3.2 Chemical's characteristics ............................................................................................................................ 8

4 Families and characteristics ..................................................................................................................... 10

Bibliography ................................................................................................................................................................. 19

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oSIST prEN 17848:2022
prEN 17848:2022 (E)
European foreword

This document (prEN 17848:2022) has been prepared by Technical Committee CEN/TC 289 “Leather”,

the secretariat of which is held by UNI.
This document is currently submitted to the CEN Enquiry.
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Introduction

By recovering a valuable organic material, tanneries have historically set themselves the goal of

developing and managing its transformation into a high value-added material.

Chemicals, which are fundamental in the various processing stages in order to obtain rot-proof and long-

lasting durable leather, provide the aesthetic and chemical-physical properties that characterize its final

use. Their characteristics and performance need to be ensured by a quality constancy, which can be

assessed through appropriate analysis and controls.
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1 Scope

This guideline provides a list of recommended tests that can be used to assess the quality of chemicals

used in tanning process.

This guideline applies to chemicals whose application has the same effect on leather, grouped in families.

2 Normative references
There are no normative references in this document.
3 Terms and definitions
For the purposes of this document, the following terms and definitions apply.

ISO and IEC maintain terminological databases for use in standardization at the following addresses:

— IEC Electropedia: available at https://www.electropedia.org/
— ISO Online browsing platform: available at https://www.iso.org/obp
3.1 Families of products
Chemicals whose application has the same effect on leather, grouped in families
3.1.1
bases

chemical species or molecular entity having an available pair of electrons capable of forming a covalent

bond with a hydron (proton) or with the vacant orbital of some other species
3.1.2
acids

molecular entity or chemical species capable of donating a hydron (proton) or capable of forming a

covalent bond with an electron pair
3.1.3
inorganic salts
inorganic chemical compound consisting of an assembly of cations and anion
3.1.4
organic salts (masking agent)

salified organic acids able to modify/mask the behaviour of chrome salts in coordinating with collagen

3.1.5
surfactants/degreasing agent in solvent

substances that have the property of lowering the surface tension of a liquid, facilitating the wettability

of the surfaces or the miscibility between different liquids
3.1.6
enzymatic mixtures

based on enzymatic principles such as protease or lipase used in the skin maceration or degreasing

phase
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3.1.7
biocides

substances or mixtures capable of inhibiting or controlling fungal or bacterial growth in the leather

process
3.1.8
antiwrinkle

substances or mixtures capable of attenuating, eliminating or preventing the formation of wrinkles on

the grain of the leather
3.1.9
deliming agents

organic or inorganic substances or mixtures capable of removing lime by converting it into soluble salts

3.1.10
solvents

organic products based on aliphatic, aromatic, alcohol, glycols, ketones and esters

3.1.11
fatliquoring agents

products with a lubrifcant effect of the skin fibers, modifying the properties of softness and resistance

3.1.12
mineral tanning salts

inorganic products capable of binding to collagen increasing its hydrothermal stability and resistance to

putrefaction
3.1.13
vegetable tannins

products of vegetable origin capable of binding to collagen increasing its hydrothermal stability and

resistance to putrefaction
3.1.14
synthetic tanning agents (syntan)

industrial synthesis products capable of binding to collagen increasing its hydrothermal stability and

resistance to putrefaction
3.1.15
organic tanning agents

organic products capable of binding to collagen increasing its hydrothermal stability and resistance to

putrefaction
3.1.16
resins

synthetic product obtained by condensation of the same monomer (polymer) or different monomers

(copolymer), used to modify the fibre structure during the wet processing stages
3.1.17
organic fillers
organic products capable of creating a filling effect
3.1.18
inorganic fillers
inorganic products capable of creating a filling effect
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3.1.19
dyestuffs: anionic, cationic

coloured water soluble substance that chemically bonds to the substrate to which it is being applied

3.1.20
finishing resins

synthetic polymers able to make cross-linking reaction with other polymers or proteins

3.1.21
natural binders

substances of vegetable or animal origin, typically caseins and albumins, used for glazable finishing

3.1.22
finishing dyes

coloured substance in solvent without salts, with dyeing but not covering capabilities

3.1.23
finishing solvents and thinners
polar or apolar solvents used singly or mixed together
3.1.24
pigments

crystalline powders with covering capabilities able to give their colour to the substrate on which they are

applied
3.1.25
compounds
mixture of several substances used in the finishing process
3.1.26
finishing auxiliaries

substances added in small doses to the finishing mixtures to modify their characteristics or facilitate the

execution of specific steps in the finishing process
3.1.27
finishing waxes

natural or synthetic substances with low melting point characterized by a greasy and waxy feel

3.1.28
strain-levelling

additives able to modify viscosity and surface tension of a finishing mixture, improving its distension

3.1.29
touch modifiers

substance able to give the desired touch to the leather surface and it can be water emulsions, solvent

solutions or dispersed into the binders
3.1.30
oils

lubricating substances of vegetable or mineral origin used as touch modifiers or to improve the grain

flexibility
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3.1.31
matting auxiliaries

crystalline substances of organic or inorganic nature with high refractive index usually used in aqueous

emulsions or dispersed in lacquers and organic solvents to modify finishing brilliance

3.1.32
finishing fillers

inert and typically inorganic substances with high specific weight used to level and make uniform the

surface of the leather
3.1.33
penetrating agents

surfactants or solvents used to improve the wettability, the penetration and the adhesion of the finishing

mixture
3.1.34
waterproofing agents

substances that can be found under various compositions such as wax and paraffin mixtures, chromium

stearates, fluorinated hydrocarbons, chloroparaffins, fatty acids, natural oils and fats

3.1.35
crosslinking agents
organic or inorganic substances capable of crosslinking polyfunctional polymers
3.2 Chemical's characteristics
3.2.1
visual appearance (colour, liquid, solid, etc.)

indicates how it appears visually indicating its physical appearance (liquid, powder), its colour and its

consistency (fluid, pasty)
3.2.2
smell
characteristic of a product that can be recognized or noticed using the nose
3.2.3
active substance

active part of a substance or compound producing a chemical effect, capable of performing the declared

application function
...