Textiles - Environmental aspects - Vocabulary (ISO/DIS 5157:2022)

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Textilien - Umweltaspekte - Vokabular (ISO/DIS 5157:2022)

Textiles - Aspects environnementaux - Vocabulaire (ISO/DIS 5157:2022)

Tekstilije - Okoljski vidiki - Slovar (ISO/DIS 5157:2022)

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SLOVENSKI STANDARD
oSIST prEN ISO 5157:2022
01-oktober-2022
Tekstilije - Okoljski vidiki - Slovar (ISO/DIS 5157:2022)
Textiles - Environmental aspects - Vocabulary (ISO/DIS 5157:2022)
Textilien - Umweltaspekte - Vokabular (ISO/DIS 5157:2022)
Textiles - Aspects environnementaux - Vocabulaire (ISO/DIS 5157:2022)
Ta slovenski standard je istoveten z: prEN ISO 5157
ICS:
01.040.13 Okolje. Varovanje zdravja. Environment. Health
Varnost (Slovarji) protection. Safety
(Vocabularies)
01.040.59 Tekstilna in usnjarska Textile and leather
tehnologija (Slovarji) technology (Vocabularies)
13.020.01 Okolje in varstvo okolja na Environment and
splošno environmental protection in
general
59.020 Postopki v tekstilni industriji Processes of the textile
industry
oSIST prEN ISO 5157:2022 en,fr,de

2003-01.Slovenski inštitut za standardizacijo. Razmnoževanje celote ali delov tega standarda ni dovoljeno.

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oSIST prEN ISO 5157:2022
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oSIST prEN ISO 5157:2022
DRAFT INTERNATIONAL STANDARD
ISO/DIS 5157
ISO/TC 38 Secretariat: SAC
Voting begins on: Voting terminates on:
2022-08-18 2022-11-10
Textiles — Environmental aspects — Vocabulary
Textiles - Aspects environnementaux - Vocabulaire
ICS: 59.020; 13.020.01; 01.040.59; 01.040.13
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DRAFT INTERNATIONAL STANDARD
ISO/DIS 5157
ISO/TC 38 Secretariat: SAC
Voting begins on: Voting terminates on:
Textiles — Environmental aspects — Vocabulary
Textiles - Aspects environnementaux - Vocabulaire
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oSIST prEN ISO 5157:2022
ISO/DIS 5157:2022(E)
Contents Page

Foreword ........................................................................................................................................................................................................................................iv

Introduction .................................................................................................................................................................................................................................v

1 Scope ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................. 1

2 Normative references ..................................................................................................................................................................................... 1

3 Terms and definitions .................................................................................................................................................................................... 1

3.1 Terms related to textiles — General ................................................................................................................................... 1

3.2 Terms related to textiles — Natural fibre ...................................................................................................................... 3

3.3 Terms related to textiles — Man-made fibre .............................................................................................................. 4

3.4 Terms related to textile — Chemical aspects ............................................................................................................. 5

3.5 Terms related to textile and plastic ..................................................................................................................................... 6

3.6 Terms related to sourcing of material ............................................................................................................................... 6

3.7 Terms related to LCA ........................................................................................................................................................................ 7

3.8 Terms related to recycling ........................................................................................................................................................ 10

3.9 Terms related to circular economy — General ....................................................................................................... 15

3.10 Terms related to traceability .................................................................................................................................................. 17

3.11 Terms related to end of life ....................................................................................................................................................... 18

Bibliography .............................................................................................................................................................................................................................21

Index .................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................23

iii
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oSIST prEN ISO 5157:2022
ISO/DIS 5157:2022(E)
Foreword

ISO (the International Organization for Standardization) is a worldwide federation of national standards

bodies (ISO member bodies). The work of preparing International Standards is normally carried out

through ISO technical committees. Each member body interested in a subject for which a technical

committee has been established has the right to be represented on that committee. International

organizations, governmental and non-governmental, in liaison with ISO, also take part in the work.

ISO collaborates closely with the International Electrotechnical Commission (IEC) on all matters of

electrotechnical standardization.

The procedures used to develop this document and those intended for its further maintenance are

described in the ISO/IEC Directives, Part 1. In particular, the different approval criteria needed for the

different types of ISO documents should be noted. This document was drafted in accordance with the

editorial rules of the ISO/IEC Directives, Part 2 (see www.iso.org/directives).

Attention is drawn to the possibility that some of the elements of this document may be the subject of

patent rights. ISO shall not be held responsible for identifying any or all such patent rights. Details of

any patent rights identified during the development of the document will be in the Introduction and/or

on the ISO list of patent declarations received (see www.iso.org/patents).

Any trade name used in this document is information given for the convenience of users and does not

constitute an endorsement.

For an explanation of the voluntary nature of standards, the meaning of ISO specific terms and

expressions related to conformity assessment, as well as information about ISO's adherence to

the World Trade Organization (WTO) principles in the Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT), see

www.iso.org/iso/foreword.html.
This document was prepared by Technical Committee ISO/TC 38, Textiles.

Any feedback or questions on this document should be directed to the user’s national standards body. A

complete listing of these bodies can be found at www.iso.org/members.html.
© ISO 2022 – All rights reserved
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oSIST prEN ISO 5157:2022
ISO/DIS 5157:2022(E)
Introduction

To date, the terminology regarding environmental aspects used in the textile industry has not been

standardized, causing confusion, ineffectiveness and worst case hindering sustainable practices in

the textile sector. The global nature of the textile industry highlights the need for global as well as

national standards, enabling a common understanding and facilitate trade. A common vocabulary may

serve to reduce the risk of greenwashing, bringing value for actors aiming to be transparent as well as

facilitating the development of trust among consumers.

This document contains definitions of terms widely used in the textile value chain in reference to

environmental aspects. ISO Guide 82 Guidelines for addressing sustainability in standards has been taken

into consideration when addressing sustainability in this document.

Some definitions related to circular economy are included in this document, referencing

ISO 59004 Circular Economy – Terminology, principles and framework for implementation currently being

developed in ISO/TC 323 Circular economy. In the case ISO 59004 has not yet reached the DIS stage

when this document reaches the publication stage, it cannot be used as reference, meaning all terms

referencing ISO 59004 need to be removed. In that case, the ambition is to propose a minor revision of

ISO 5157 as soon as ISO 59004 has been published, to include the accepted terms and definitions.

The list of terms is wide but not exhaustive.
© ISO 2022 – All rights reserved
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oSIST prEN ISO 5157:2022
DRAFT INTERNATIONAL STANDARD ISO/DIS 5157:2022(E)
Textiles — Environmental aspects — Vocabulary
1 Scope

This document provides general terms and definitions used in the textile value chain related to

environmental aspects including design, production, retail, use and reuse, recycling processes and

disposal.

This document is applicable to all stakeholders in the textile value chain regardless of size and location.

Stakeholders will benefit from a common terminology for addressing issues related to environmental

aspects of textile products and processes.

The aim of this document is to enable future standardization work related to environmental

sustainability in the textile value chain, taking into account the aspects and definitions provided in

ISO Guide 82. Definitions are as far as possible adapted from existing standards but when the intention

or definition is unclear additional context or definitions are updated or added.
2 Normative references
There are no normative references in this document.
3 Terms and definitions
For the purposes of this document, the following terms and definitions apply.

ISO and IEC maintain terminological databases for use in standardization at the following addresses:

— ISO Online browsing platform: available at https:// www .iso .org/ obp
— IEC Electropedia: available at https:// www .electropedia .org/
3.1 Terms related to textiles — General
3.1.1
biodegradable material

material capable of undergoing biological aerobic or anaerobic degradation (3.11.5) during a fixed

period leading to a release of carbon dioxide and/or biogas and biomass (3.2.4), depending on the

environmental conditions of the process
3.1.2
blended fibres fabric
fabric composed of more than one fibre type
3.1.3
fibre composition
description of fibre contents expressed by mass percentage
3.1.4
mono material textiles
textiles made of of textile fibres (3.1.10) from solely one chemical composition

Note 1 to entry: One fibre type can consist of different chemical compositions. For example, polyamide-6 is a

different material than polyamide-6.6.
EXAMPLE A woven fabric made of 100 % cotton yarn.
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3.1.5
mono material textiles product

textile product (3.1.11) made of textile fibres (3.1.10) and other components from solely one chemical

composition

EXAMPLE A polyester sport t-shirt that is made from disperse dyed 100 % polyester knitted fabric, with

dispersed dyed 100 % polyester sewing thread and labels containing 100 % polyester that are sublimation

printed with disperse dyes not containing transfer prints out of other than polyester material.

3.1.6
multi material textiles

textiles made of textile fibres or materials made from more than one chemical composition

Note 1 to entry: Example: bi-component fibres are a multi material textile.

EXAMPLE Examples of multi material textile are e.g. intimate blend of polyester and cotton fibre, different

fibres in warp and weft or a polyurethane coated polyester fabric.
3.1.7
multi material textiles product

textile product (3.1.11) made of textile fibres (3.1.10) and other components consisting of materials made

from more than one chemical composition

EXAMPLE A jacket containing a pure cotton fabric, with a polyester sewing yarn, a zipper with a polyester

fabric and a polyoxymethylene hard parts (teeth, stoppers, and puller), a polyester woven label and metal press

buttons.
3.1.9
recycled fibre
non-virgin fibre

Note 1 to entry: Claims of recycled fibre should only be made if the amount of recycled content (3.8.28) is stated

and verified by a third-party chain of custody (3.10.4) certification.
3.1.10
textile fibre

unit of matter characterized by its flexibility, fineness and high ratio of length to maximum transverse

dimension, which render it suitable for textile applications
[SOURCE: ISO/TR 23383:2020, 3.1]
3.1.11
textile product

product made mainly of of textile fibres (3.1.10), yarns and/ or fabrics and intended to be used, as such

or in conjunction with other textile or non-textile elements

Note 1 to entry: These articles can contain non-textile parts, such as plastics (e.g. buttons and membrane or

coatings) or metals.

[SOURCE: ISO/TR 23383:2020(en), 3.2 - modified: "mainly" added and Note 1 to entry added]

3.1.12
virgin raw material

material that has not been subjected to use or processing other than that required for its initial

manufacture
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3.2 Terms related to textiles — Natural fibre
3.2.1
bio-based
derived from biomass (3.2.4)

Note 1 to entry: Biomass (3.2.4) can have undergone physical, chemical or biological treatment(s).

Note 2 to entry: The correct spelling of “bio-based” is with a hyphen (-). It is however in common usage sometimes

spelt without a hyphen.

Note 3 to entry: The methods to determine and communicate "bio-based" as a characteristic are detailed in

specific standards of CEN/TC 411.
[SOURCE: EN 16575:2014, 2.1]
3.2.2
bio-based content
fraction of a product that is derived from biomass (3.2.4)

Note 1 to entry: Normally expressed as a percentage of the total mass of the product.

Note 2 to entry: Considering the difficulties to determine the bio-based content in textile products (3.1.11),

traceability from the producer has been found suitable.
[SOURCE: EN 16575:2014, 2.4, Note 2 to entry changed]
3.2.3
bio-based product
product wholly or partly derived from biomass (3.2.4)

Note 1 to entry: The bio-based product is normally characterised by the bio-based carbon content or the bio-

based content (3.2.2). For the determination and declaration of the bio-based content and the bio-based carbon

content, see the relevant standards of CEN/TC 411.
[SOURCE: EN 16575:2014, 2.5]
3.2.4
biomass

material of biological origin, excluding material embedded in geological formations or transformed to

fossilized material and excluding peat

Note 1 to entry: This includes organic material (both living and dead) from above and below ground, e.g. trees,

crops, grasses, tree litter, algae, animals and waste (3.11.17) of biological origin, e.g. manure.

[SOURCE: EN ISO 14021:2017, 3.1.1]
3.2.5
natural fibre

fibre which occurs in nature; they can be categorized according to their origin into animal, vegetable

and mineral fibre
[SOURCE: EN ISO 6938:2014, 2.1]
3.2.6
natural polymer
biopolymer

polymer obtained from biomass (3.2.4), in which the polymer retains the original chemical structure

and composition present in biomass (i.e. starch, cellulose, lignin or lignocellulose)

[SOURCE: ISO 16620-1:2015, 3.1.7, modified – biopolymer added as synonym]
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3.2.7
organic fibres

natural fibres (3.2.5) grown without the use of synthetic pesticides, insecticides, or herbicides and GMOs

(3.6.2) according to the principles of organic agriculture (3.6.4)

Note 1 to entry: The farm needs certification to comply with USDA National Organic Program (NOP), Regulation

(EC) 834/2007 & EU 2018/848, or any other organic standard that is approved in the IFOAM Family of Standards.

3.3 Terms related to textiles — Man-made fibre
3.3.1
artificial fibre

manufactured fibre made by transformation of natural polymers (3.2.6) (macromolecular material

existing in nature)
[SOURCE: ISO/TR 11827:2012, 4.2.1]
3.3.2
dissolving pulp

cellulose based pulp used in production of regenerated cellulosic fibre (3.3.5) such as lyocell and viscose

cellulose acetate
3.3.3
man-made fibre
fibre obtained by a manufacturing process

Note 1 to entry: The term “chemically manufactured” fibre can be named “manufactured” fibre or “chemical”

fibre.
[SOURCE: ISO 2076:2021, 3.1]
3.3.4
microfibre
fibre with linear density less than 1 dtex or a diameter less than 10μm
3.3.5
regenerated cellulosic fibre

fibres produced from naturally occurring polymers of cellulose, where processing by dissolution is

needed to convert them into fibre form
3.3.6
regenerated fibres

fibres produced from naturally occurring polymers of cellulose or protein, where processing by

dissolution is needed to convert them into fibre form
[SOURCE: ISO 2076]
3.3.7
regenerated protein fibre

fibres produced from naturally occurring polymers of protein, where processing by dissolution is

needed to convert them into fibre form
3.3.8
synthetic fibre

manufactured fibre made from synthetic polymers (macromolecular material which has been

chemically synthesised)
[SOURCE: ISO/TR 11827:2012, 4.2.2]
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ISO/DIS 5157:2022(E)
3.4 Terms related to textile — Chemical aspects
3.4.1
chemical content

presence of chemical substances in textiles and textile products (3.1.11), including residues from process

chemicals, chemical substances added for function (finishes, pigment, softeners, water repellents, etc.)

and chemicals used during transport, storage etc.
3.4.2
contaminant
unwanted substance or material

Note 1 to entry: The term “impurity” is a deprecated synonym of contaminant and should not be used.

[SOURCE: ISO 15270:2008, 3.8]
3.4.3
contaminated textile

textile material containing unwanted substances not deliberately added, such as chemical residues from

production processes, exposure to chemicals during transport, contamination from use, contamination

from mould, etc.
3.4.4
dilution effect

result of reducing the chemical content (3.4.1) in an individual textile by increasing the solvent amount

3.4.5
free
substance free

claim made when the level of the specified substance is no more than that which would be found as an

acknowledged trace contaminant (3.4.2) or background level

Note 1 to entry: For insights to self-declared environmental claims and any explanatory statements, see

requirements provided in 5.7 in ISO 14021:2016.

EXAMPLE Common statements of substance free are "Ni free", "azo free", "phthalate free", "PFAS free" or

"PFC free"
[SOURCE: ISO 14021:2016, 5.4]
3.4.6
MRSL
manufacturing restricted substances list

list of chemical substances which are banned from intentional use for the production of textiles

3.4.7
pollutant

substance that is present in concentrations that can harm organisms (humans, plants and animals) or

exceed an environmental quality standard

[SOURCE: Glossary of Environment Statistics, Studies in Methods, Series F, No. 67, United Nations, New

[30]
York, 1997 ]
3.4.8
restricted chemical
chemical which has been banned or otherwise restricted

Note 1 to entry: the ban or the restriction can be by legislation or by private organisations.

Note 2 to entry: the restricted chemical is related to its use and/or presence in textile products (3.1.11) or

processes.
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3.4.9
textile finishing

chemical or mechanical action on a textile such as dyeing, bleaching, scouring, printing as well as an

application to achieve a specified appearance (e.g. brushed), handle (softness and drape), quality (e.g.

fabric stability) or functional finish (e.g. durable water repellency, antifelt treatment, easy care) on the

textile
3.5 Terms related to textile and plastic
3.5.1
depolymerization

reversion of a polymer to its monomer(s) (3.5.3) or to a polymer of lower relative molecular mass

Note 1 to entry: The resulting smaller molecules could be monomers (3.5.3) and oligomers or raw, intermediate,

or final products.
[SOURCE: ISO 472:2013, modified – Note 1 to entry added]
3.5.2
microplastics

material consisting of a solid polymer containing particles, to which additives or other substances may

have been added, and where ≥ 1 % w/w particles have:
(i) all sizes 1 nm ≤ x ≤ 5 mm
(ii) for fibres, a length of 3 nm ≤ x ≤ 15 mm and a length/diameter ratio >3

Note 1 to entry: Polymers that occur in nature that have not been chemically modified (other than by hydrolysis)

are excluded, as are polymers that are (bio)degradable.
[28]

[SOURCE: ECHA - ANNEX XV Restriction Report – Microplastics, 22 August 2019 , 1.2.2.1, modified –

Note 1 to entry added]
3.5.3
monomer

chemical compound, usually of low molecular mass, that can be converted into a polymer by combining

it with itself or with other chemical compounds
[SOURCE: EN ISO 472:2013, 2.624]
3.6 Terms related to sourcing of material
3.6.1
in-conversion
transitional

establishment of an organic management system and building of soil fertility requires an interim

period, known as the conversion period

Note 1 to entry: While the conversion period may not always be of sufficient duration to improve soil fertility and

for re-establishing the balance of the ecosystem, it is the period in which all the actions required to reach these

goals are started.
[33]
[SOURCE: Textile Exchange, Organic Cotton Standard ]
3.6.2
GMO
Genetically Modified Organism

organism in which the genetic material has been changed through modern biotechnology in a way that

does not occur naturally by multiplication and/or natural recombination
[SOURCE: ISO 16577:2016, 3.73]
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3.6.3
GMO free
contains no genetically modified organisms (3.6.2)
3.6.4
organic agriculture

holistic production management system which promotes and enhances agro-ecosystem health,

including biodiversity, biological cycles (3.9.1), and soil biological activity, emphasisingthe use of

management practices in preference to the use of off-farm inputs (3.7.10), taking into account that

regional conditions require locally adapted systems, accomplished by using, where possible, agronomic,

biological, and mechanical methods, as opposed to using synthetic materials, to fulfil any specific

function within the system

Note 1 to entry: The farm carrying out organic agriculture needs certification according to USDA National Organic

Program (NOP), Regulation (EC) 834/2007 & EU 2018/848, or any other organic standard that is approved in the

IFOAM Family of Standards.
[SOURCE: FAO/WHO Codex Alimentarius Commission, 1999]
3.7 Terms related to LCA
3.7.1
by-product

co-product from a process that is incidental or not intentionally produced and which cannot be avoided

Note 1 to entry: Waste (3.11.17) is not a by-product.
[SOURCE: ISO 21930:2017, 3.4.7]
3.7.2
carbon footprint

net amount of GHG (greenhouse gas) emissions and GHG removals, expressed in CO equivalents

[SOURCE: ISO 16759:2013, 3.1.1]
3.7.3
cradle-to-gate

assessment of resource or environmental burdens involved in a manufacturing stage of a material

or product life cycle (3.7.11), where activities include, but are not limited to; resource extraction,

transportation, processing and manufacturing

Note 1 to entry: The definition is based on LCA practice as outlined in ISO 14044:2006.

3.7.4
cradle-to-grave

assessment of resource or environmental burdens involved in a material or product entire life cycle

(3.7.11), which may be connected to, but are not limited to; resource extraction, processing, fabrication,

transportation, retail, e-commerce, usage and end-of-life (3.7.6) alternative repair (3.9.10), reuse (3.9.11),

recycle, final disposal (3.11.8)

Note 1 to entry: The definition is based on LCA practice as outlined in ISO 14044:2006.

3.7.5
ecodesign

integration of environmental aspects (3.7.7) into product design and development, with the aim of

reducing adverse environmental impacts (3.7.8) throughout a product's life cycle

Note 1 to entry: Other terminology used worldwide includes Environmentally Conscious Design (ECD), Design

For Environment (DFE), green design and environmentally sustainable design.
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Note 2 to entry: Design for recycling (3.8.31) and design for durability (3.9.8) cover some of the aspects covered

by ecodesign.
[SOURCE: ISO 14006:2011, 3.2.2, modified – Note 2 to entry added]
3.7.6
end-of-life

life cycle (3.7.11) stage of a product when a proper waste (3.11.17) management is applied for discarded

(3.11.6) end-user products

Note 1 to entry: The end-of-life of a textile material occurs at the end of its useful life when it can no longer be

reused (3.7.23), reprocessed nor recycled.

[SOURCE: ISO 17422:2018, 3.11, modified — Note 1 to entry changed, reference to Annex A removed,

Note 2 to entry added.]
3.7.7
environmental aspect
elements of product value chain (3.10.9) that can interact with the environment
[SOURCE: ISO 14001:2015, 3.17]
3.7.8
environmental impact

any change to the environment, whether adverse or beneficial, wholly or partially resulting from the

product value chain (3.10.9)
[SOURCE: ISO 14001:2015, 3.18]
3.7.9
extended producer responsibility
EPR

policy approach under which producers are given a significant responsibility – financial and/or physical

– for the treatment or disposal of post-consumer products

Note 1 to entry: A scheme is defined in point 3, Article 8 of Directive 2008/98/EC.

Note 2 to entry: As defined in point 1, Art. 8 of Directive 2008/98/EC, EPR could include an acceptance of returned

products and of the waste (3.11.17) that remains after those products have been used, as well as the subsequent

management of the waste and financial responsibility for such activities. EPR could include the obligation to

provide publicly available information as to the extent to which the product is re-usable and recyclable.

[31]
[SOURCE: OECD , modified; notes to entry added.]
3.7.10
input
product, material or energy flow that enters a unit process

Note 1 to entry: Products and materials include raw materials, intermediate products and co-products.

Note 2 to entry: Input includes reused (3.9.11), reprocessed and recycled materials (3.8.29) or products and can

occur at any stage of the value chain (3.10.
...

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